Autumn catch up

It has been a wee while since I have had a sit down to write a wee update, which is great as it has been such an action packed few weeks.  I guess the brilliant weather has helped.  Fortunately I haven't had to travel around too much as the rock has been dry and work has been local.  A couple of visits to Brin Rock and Tunnel Wall helped kick of Sport Climbing season, given that I haven't had a great summer of rock climbing, I felt I was doing ok.  Really enjoyed the routes I tried.  Really pleased to climb Uncertain Emotions in Glencoe after a couple of visits.  I also made the most of some nice days with cragging at Creag Dubh, bouldering at the Skeleton Boulder in Glen Nevis and mountain biking at Wolftrax  before work kicked in.  I have just finished my 3rd week working at the Joint Services Mountain Training Centre in Ballachulish (the military version of Plas y Brenin and Glenmore Lodge).  I have been working on a host of instructor training courses, two weeks of rock climbing instructor training and assessments and a week of Mountain Leader Training.  We visited a whole host of single pitch climbing venues, some with a lengthy drives but worth it for the dry rock and the climbing.  Its been great working Monday to Friday 8am-5pm, feels like a 'real job' with time to spare and weekends to catch up with folk.  With an upcoming trip away sport climbing on the Greek Island of Kalymnos I have been trying hard to build some fitness to get the most of the trip.  So a few trips to Ratho (best indoor wall in Scotland...if not the UK!) and mid week bouldering have been doing the trick.  This week I am working on Mountain Leader Assessment so will be out on the hills for the week which will be great, before flying out at the weekend.   I'm hoping that when I return at the start of December I will be straight into winter climbing so watch this space.

Brin (Zed Buttress) with Mhairi and Murdoch

Good views in Glen Nevis (above Skeleton Boulder)

Creag Dubh...beaut day!

Kingussie Rock training

Group abseil

Setting up climbing at Glen Nevis

Team at Kingussie

Where is the Loch?

Inversion on the Buachaille

Mountain Leader ropework

Walking out of the Buachaille

Good navigation training in Glencoe

Dream team loving learning new skills

Training at Dave Mac's wall

Battle up the Buachaille

Today I was back out the the Cotswold team.  More testing of the Mountain Equipment gear and we tested it well.  We faught strong winds and driving snow.  We avoided Coire an Tulaich on Buachaille Etive Mor like the plague and took the ridge to the right.  We made the right choice as the cornice was huge and it was loaded with fresh wind blown snow.  I'll be keeping away form that for a while!

Team on the summit

ML Training

My final week at Plas y Brenin didn't go quite as planned, I was meant to be working on a Private Rock course but unfortunately my clients didn't turn, apparently they were stranded in Australia... Lucky them.  So instead I was moved on to an Mountain Leader Training course.  On Tuesday I took a group out locally from the centre and covered all aspects of using a rope in a emergency situations, looking at how to select suitable anchors, attach to them, safe guard groups as well as looking at confidence roping and all aspects of descending   On the Wednesday and Thursday I took the group on a mini expedition around Snowdon.  We were hit with pretty foul weather throughout, the thunder and lightening storms were very exciting and fortunately didn't strike any of my team down.  The foul weather continued into the night and made our night navigation exercise great fun and very realistic.  With a pretty wet week I only managed to get to the Beacon Climbing Centre for a session and went and climbed Cockblock (E5 6a) with Murdoch on the Tuesday after work.  Tomorrow I'll be heading back up North.

Rock intro week

This week I have been direction a Getting Started rock climbing course for Plas y Brenin. Again we had some mixed weather but managed to avoid overusing the climbing wall. We visited Fach Wen, Rhoscolyn, Tremadog, Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns) and the Slate quarries. It was a great week with a great bunch of people. I was climbing with Jenny and Beeshman who both did put everything they had into the week which meant we got lots of climbing done and had a great laugh. Hopefully see them both again soon! Unfortunately I didn't get any photos with my camera as Beeshman wanted photos on his camera. After work I managed to get out to the Cromlech boulders a couple of times with Kenny and Donald, hit the Slate quarries and climbed Goose Creatures (E3 5c) and then Swan Hunter (E4 6b) and had a training session in the bouldering wall and had an evening in the Pass on SS Special (E2 5c), Brant Direct (HVS 5a) and a top rope on Cockblock (E5 6a). A good week, just could do with a good spell of weather now!

Climb Hard week

Just finished a week with climbers who have been wanting to push their grade as well as their skills set.  We had a fairly mixed week of weather, but managed to make the most of it and cover plenty of skills for the team to go home and practice with.  Due to damp conditions we spent a bit of time at the wall, which allowed us to cover movement techniques, rope work and introduced specific training programmes to the team.  For the last 4 days, we visited Tremadog, Castle Inn quarry and the Beacon.

Climb Harder

Today is the first day of the Climb Harder course I'm directing at Plas Y Brenin and unfortunately it was quite damp.  We managed to get 3 routes in early on in the day and then we headed back to the centre for some coaching in the bouldering wall and on some routes.  After tea and cakes we went out and went over belay construction.  Hope its dryer tomorrow!

Summer Mountain Leader Assesment

Over the last couple of days I have been working in Wales assessing some candidates for the Summer Mountain Leader. An interesting transition from lots of winter climbing to walking around with the sun above us and talking alot about flowers and rocks. We camped out 2 nights around Snowdon, did two sessions of night nav and back down to the cafe for a bacon sandwich. Well done to all the candidates who all passed. It was good to be back in Wales working for Plas Y Brenin but now heading back up to Scotland to have someone assessing me!

Clogwyn y Grochan

Today we had blue skies and chilly winds. We headed up to 'the Grochan' for a little bit of mileage. We started on Brant Direct (HVS 5a), Kaisergebirger Wall (HVS 5a), SS Special (E2 5c), Mural (E4 6a) and did Brant direct again when Dan turned up at the crag. It was very cold today, fortunately none of us were hanging around, quickly up a route then down for the next one. Eventually the wind picked up and we retreated back for warm drinks and toast. After a while we heading back up Llanberis Pass and bouldered for an hour before getting rained/wind'ed/cold'ed off! Great to be back on the rock again. The next 3 days I'm off on a mini-break assessing a Mountain Leader Assessment for Plas Y Brenin.

Big walk

Today Plas Y Brenin were running the Big Acoustic Walk so I took a team up Snowdon. I've not much to say about today other then it was absolutely perfect weather, a cloudless sky, wall to wall sunshine and a nice cool breeze. Obviously being a Saturday we weren't alone on the mountain, it seemed like everyone wanted the view we got. The team made it up and down in a great time which meant time for tea and cake in the cafe before heading back for drinks in the bar and live music. Unfortunately I could join in as I have to drive up to Ambleside.

Mountain Leader Training

This week I was working for 4 days on a Mountain Leader Training. On Monday the group and I spent the day mainly inside covering areas of the syllabus which are covered best in a classroom. In the afternoon after the torrential rain had eased, we went outside and we introduced the group to the rope work which they will need to learn for their assessment. We covered the basics on the grounds of the centre so on Tuesday we were able to get cracking on with putting it into context and practicing lots of skills. On Monday Dave and I took the group river crossing on the upper parts of the Nantygwryd. Tuesday we went out and spent most of the day looking at rope work around the Ricks and Rack and came in to get prepared for expedition. Wednesday and Thursday we walked from Ogwen up and over Creigiau Gleision and camped by Llyn Cowlyd Reservoir and walked back to the centre on the final day. Weather was pretty bad all week but cleared up just as we got back to Plas y Brenin! Good effort to all the team who kept on smiling in the worst weather!

Mountain Leader Assesment

This week I have been working on a Mountain Leader Assesment. I was assesing the candidates on all aspect of the syllabus from navigation to ropework, campcraft to environmental knowledge. Day one we walked from Ogwen back to the centre giving the candidates the opportunity to demonstrate their navigation ability as well as demonstrating they have what it takes to become mountain leaders. Day two we headed into Llamberis Pass and covered some steep ground so the candidates could demonstrate how they would look after a group. Day 3,4 and 5 we went on expedition. We walked out from the the centre and camped near Pen-y-Pass, then over Llwedd and camped below the Watkin path. The group had nice weather for their assesment, only a small ammount of drizzle.

Mountain Equipment Testing (day 2)

Today I was out with another team of outdoor equipment stores from around the country. The group of 8 all have some hill walking experience but they all wanted something a little more hands on but with no use of ropes. We opted for the North Ridge of Tryfan which stretched the group in different ways. The weather was particularly grim and not a great day for hanging around but great to test out the new gore-tex jackets and the warm down jackets. As always the conclusions were that Mountain Equipment clothing works very well!

Walking Group Leader Assesment

Over the last two days I have been working on a Walking Group Leader Assessment. I was assessing 7 candidates with Helen over 3 day, I worked on the first two. The group were demonstrating their ability to navigate groups around the upland environment, keep the group interested with their knowledge of the environment and also how to deal with emergency scenarios. We also went out night navigating so the group could show me that they can navigate in poor visibility and darkness. Well done to the 4 that passed.

Mountain Equipment Testing

Today I was with Emma and Beth who work for Gaynor Sports in Cumbria. They had come down on a meet with Mountain Equipment to test out some of the latest gear. So we headed down to Tremadog for a spot of rock climbing in the sun. Neither of the girls had rock climbed outside so I led them both up Boo Boo (VD) and then Oberon (S). After realising that they both climb well and keen to learn more Emma lowered Beth into the top of Merlin Direct (HVS 5a) for a little bit of a challenge.

Winter Navigation Preperation

Today I was out with a group of 6 who were after some preparation before the winter months kick in. The group have all walked and navigated in the summer environment but have very little experience in the snow. We firstly went over the basics of navigation and go over any grey areas before we got into more winter navigation techniques. We discussed the hazards and problems that can occur in the winter mountains and how it can affect us navigating and most importantly how we can deal with it. After revising the basic skills we went through several winter navigation strategies and what we can do in poor visibility situations. We spent quite alot of time looking at contour features and slope aspect as this was a week area for all the group as well as relocation. On the top of Pen y Ole Wen we looked at techniques for protecting near a corniced edge using a rope. Unfortunately the weather was very summery, I have never taught winter navigation/skills in a t-shirt and sun hat!!

Mountain Leader Training

This week I have been working on a Mountain Leader Training, covering all aspects of the syllabus. Day 1 was the navigation day where we went up and around Crimpiau, looking at was of teaching navigation to groups. Throughout the week we have a big interaction with the environment so we made a good start on the flora and flora of the area. Day two we went into Cwm Idwal looking at leadership styles and group management on steep ground. As the weather was close to Armageddon, we decided not to summit the Glyders as it would have not enabled us to cover as much ground as we did and give the candidates lots of experience on the steeper ground. Day 3 was an introduction to rope work and some classroom lectures and exercises and we finished with doing some river crossing. Day 4 was security on steep ground day, again we went into Cwn Idwal and then back to prepare for expedition. Day 5 and 6 was the overnight expedition, it was mostly wet throughout the day but cleared up before we got to camp and didn't rain again until the next day. A great week with a fantastic group.

Cotsworld

Over the last two days I have been working with a group from Cotsworld outdoors. The first day I took the group out to learn all about GPS units that they stock in their stores. It was perfect weather for navigation, very low thick cloud. We tested the limitations of GPS units whilst testing out the new RAB range of clothing. Day 2 we went scrambling up the North ridge of Tryfan. The weather was much nicer today, clear skies and light winds. This meant we had a quick ascent, then went up Bristly Ridge (grade 1***) and back down to do a little introduction to ropework which the group may use on a scramble.

Day 2 and 3 First Aid

This weekend I have been finishing of a 3 day REC first aid course. Its been a fantastic 3 days, learnt lots throughout the weekend. It has been very practical and it has been great to hear Steve's stories from past experiences. Its great to hear how he has put all these techniques into real life experiences! The only problem with the course was that it put me off doing a hard and bold climb that I really wanted to do as all these stories of people being pulled off crags! One day I will climb Right Wall! Instead I went for a boulder at the Cromlech boulders.

First Aid day 1 and some hard climbing

Today I was on the first day of REC first aid course run at Plas y Brenin. Its been about 3 years since I last did a course like this so it was great to see how the school of thought has changed. It was a very practical day with the group interacting and getting hands on with one another. After the day Baby Dave and I went to have a look at Beginners Mind (E7 6c). Dave has had a play before but still not got it. We dropped a top rope down and Dave flashed it right away. I had a go and couldn't figure out the crux, my fingers just aren't strong enough for it, I did get to the top though. Dave had another go on top rope and flew up to the top, looking super cool. I had another play making slightly more progress but still couldn't get through the crux. Dave then decided to lead it, very bold climbing up to 2 poor pegs then run out to the top, very balancey and super barn-doory! Dave cruised it which was amazing to watch, a true talent! I had another go, got to the top, but fell at the hard bit again.

Walking Group Leader Training

Today was the last day of the Walking Group Leader Training run at Plas y Brenin. Over the 3 days Helen and I covered all aspects of the syllabus through classroom and practical based activities. We headed up above Penmaenmawr on the first day, looking at navigation, leadership skills and group management. The second day we looked at hazard awareness, new navigation techniques and more consolidation of the previous day. Tuesday evening we went out night naving out the back of Capel Curig just after I was for a wee boulder at the RAC's. The final day took us up behind Rachub, around Moel Faban (409m), Llefn (443m) and Gyrn (542m).
This evening Dave and I quickly headed up to the slate and climbed Massambula (E2 5b) before it got dark.