Introduction to lead climbing Day 1

Today I was out with a group of students from Lochaber College on the Outdoor Education Course. This is a 3 day course and hopefully by the end the students will be ready to lead routes unsupervised. Today we went up to Kingussie Crag and climbed several routes on front face of the upper tier. We climbed Little Wall (Diff*), The Groove (Hard Severe**), The Block (Very Difficult), The Slab (Difficult **), Right-hand Crack (HVS 5A**) and finished on First Pull (VS 4C). The rock was nice and dry, we had no rain, only a cold breeze.

Duke of Edinburgh bronze practice expedition

Last Friday, I set off with Kinlochleven High School D of E group for their first experience of walking with heavy rucksacks and camping in the wild. The group consisted of 10 students and two teachers. We got the train from Fort William and took the short journey to Corrour Station. From here we headed NW to Loch Treig and stopped for lunch. After lunch the group navigated W past Creaguaineach Lodge, down to Staoineag Bothie and onto Luibeilt where we set up camp for the night. The next day we headed SW back to Kinlochleven along Loch Eildh Mor. The groups were doing studies on the Flora and Fauna en-route, coming across common butterwort, primrose, iris, ladies mantle and many more which were starting to make appearances this spring. Unfortunately the group were looking forward to seeing some deer but never did. Next up for these guys will be their assessment expedition.

Glen Nevis

Today I went climbing with two clients who were really keen to learn to climb trad. Both were indoor climbers and had some experience sport climbing but had never been on the lead with trad gear. We started off on Pinnacle ridge, we climbed this in 3 pitches in series so they both got a chance to remove protection and build belays. We then walked up the The Gutter and Ben led the first pitch and Sarah led the second and third with me next to them on a fixed line. Once we topped out we walked down for a bite to eat and then agreed to climb Resurrection. I led them up in parallel and then we abseiled down form the tree. With only a short amount of time left we finished with Ben leading Tear on SW buttress and Sarah seconding and then they set up an abseil to return to the bags. It was very warm and slightly cloudy today, with lots of sunny spells. After returning the clients to their cars I met up with Dan and Jamie and we went for a evening cragging. I led them up a HVS on Repton, Jamie led up Scratch and then Dan did his first lead on Right Wall.

Crackattack

After work today Dan and I popped up to Glen Nevis to finish some unfinished business. We headed up to Wave Buttress and climbed Crackattack (E3 5c). This was Dans second ever climb, so a good effort for him. I had tried this route once before but fell off and got to pumped to carry on so I was lowered down, so this time I was pleased to get to the top.

Storm

Yesterday, Lorenzo, Ben and I headed down into Glen Nevis after work for a quick climb before it got dark. This was Lorenzo's first rock climb of the season, so he went for the first pitch and then I gave him the second as well, so he can practice his gear placements a bit more. Ben went on and finished up the final pitch. We walked down and headed back to the car. Lots of boulderers at Heather hat, climbers on Secretaries, Repton, High and several more.

Glen Nevis

Today I took Joe and Tom on their first day rock climbing. We started of on Pinnacle Ridge (severe), breaking it into 3 pitches, we then went up to Styx Buttress and climbed Damnation (VS 4b). Then headed over and climbed the Gutter in 3 pitches then abseiled off and finished off with Three Pines (mild severe) Not bad for their first day! It as dry at first then the rain came in patchy around 2pm.

Dunkeld - 07/04/09

Ben and I headed East in search of dry rock, we did find some fortunately. We climbed The Rut (VS 5a), Ben led this one, then I led up The Groove (VS 5a). After this we met Graham and he led the first pitch of The End (VS 5a) and Ben led the second pitch. The rain was coming in so we left the rack an ropes in the car and headed up to lower and upper cave for a nosy. After this we opted for some action on Myopic's Buttress where Graham and I climbed The chopping Block (7b), Ben made a strong effort but couldn't get through the roof. A good day considering the on and off rain.

Glen Nevis - 3/04/09

A day down Glen Nevis proved to be very productive with Donald, Ben and Graham. We started off at Whale Rock and the first route of the season I led Ben and Graham up Earthstrip (E2 5c). After this we headed up to skeleton boulder for a few problems, skin was ripping pretty easily! Then headed back down to the river and did 1.5 deep water soloing problems, yes i fell into the cold snow melt water!! After drying off, we went up to Scimitar Upper Buttress and climbed Jesus Christ Come on Down (VS-E2???)(I think HVS 5a). We then wandered up to Bistro Buttress and Donald and I climbed Cool Cookie(E15a)/Winter Blues(E25c)?? The skies were clear with very little wind.

Chamonix

Back for a wee break in the French Alps, I wasn't climbing but spent all the time possible on the slopes. I met up with Dan and my sister (doing a season) and we did lots of off-piste in search of fresh tracks and we weren't disappointed. We was mainly snowboarding as plenty of powder was delivered on the hills, however I did manage to get some skiing in as well. Now for some end of season routes on the Ben?? I hope so!!

12/3/09 - Hell's Lum

On Thursday I headed over to Hell's Lum to have a look at Deep Cut Chimney with Jamie. Unfortunately, whilst gearing up my super lightweight helmet blew away with a strong gust of wind. We went to look for it but had no luck. I decided I didn't fancy climbing Deep Cut without a helmet because there was already a team on the route. We went and soloed Escalator instead which was in good condition. I then headed over to the top of The Seam to find Graham and Ben on their second route and took some shots for them. So the day didn't quite go to plan, but it was enjoyable.

On the slopes

On Tuesday I went up onto Aonach Mor and had a half day on the slopes before my 2pm shift at The Ice Factor. The slopes were quite quiet and on a blue sky day with fresh snow, it was a great way to start a days work. Off to Chamonix next week, so having a half day to get a few turns in will allow me to get the most out of the trip.

Snowing at sea level

Again as I woke up this morning, I looked out of my window to find everything covered in snow. It was a cold evening here in Kinlochleven and the the snow has been falling constantly from the early hours in the morning and is still going now (9am). I expect it to busy at The Ice Factor today.

Fresh Snow

Yesterday and last night we recieved pleanty of fresh snow. It fell down to sea level but has been slowly thawing out at the low levels. Up high the snow is deep and the will be large accumulations of fresh windslab. Make sure you check out the Avalanch Forcast before you head out. Bring on the low temperatures!

Mountaineering in the snow!

Today I assisted Karl on day two of a winter mountaineering course. We built bucket seats, T-axe belays, snow bollards - and then tested them to destruction! Still strong even though the snow is very soft. We then went up North gully and looked at using rock spikes and threads when we could, snow anchors otherwise. To descend we looked at stompers and also built a snow bollard and abseiled off it. On the way down we saw the mountain rescue in the process of extracting someone who fell down the whole length and more of SC Gully. The new snow that had fallen over night and throughout the day was very soft and damp, lots of cartwheels came hurtling down the slopes approaching the crags throughout the day. Could really do with a good freeze to firm it up.