At last a bit of sunshine!

Final day for Izzi today and we headed to a south facing crag so we could soak up some of the sun that was peering out. We ended up at Castle Rock in Thirlmere where we climbed several routes. Izzi did some more leading but I led most of the routes as Izzi fancied climbing some harder, steeper lines. We climbed Gangway Climb (VD), Kleine Rinne/Via Media (VS), Direct Route (VS 4b), Yew Tree Climb (VD) and finished on Slab Climb (S). Heading up to Scotland for a few days tonight.

Cold rock climbing

Today Izzi and I headed up to Raven Crag in Borrowdale and climbed Corvus (Diff). It was a cold damp day so we left the rock shoes in the car and climbed in our boots. Izzi was up for more leading so she led 3 pitches and I led the other 5 pitches. The best pitch was the hand traverse which was quite tricky in big boots but had great gear all the way across. A good 3 star route but a bit slimy in the wet.

Crag to ourselves

Day two for Izzi and more leading for her was on the cards. We went to Langdale and Izzi led all the way up Middlefell Buttress (Diff). She wanted to focus on managing the ropework and belays as if she was leading a novice with her. We abseiled off looking at simple abseil set up and ways of protecting an abseil. We then moved over and climbed The original Route (Severe). This time Izzi wanted to see ropework and stance management when two climbers are swapping leads. So this is what we did on this climb. We both led two pitches each. We abseiled off the crag again and got back to the bags just before it got dark.

Cold fingers then very wet fingers

Today I was out with Izzi who was looking for some more rock mileage. She has been out with some other instructors recently looking at building belays and placing protection. So today she wanted to get on the sharp end and do some leading. Firstly I led Izzi up all pitches on Donkeys Ears (Severe) at Shepard's Crag in Borrowdale. This gave me an opportunity to see how Izzi was moving on the rock. We then headed up to Brown Slabs and Izzi led 3 pitches up to the top. From here we abseiled down and went to climb a VD on North Buttress but it started to rain so we agreed that I would lead her up Eve (VS 4c). Half way through the route it stopped raining and it was pretty much dry at the top. We got back to the bags just before dark.

Deep snow on Ben Nevis

Today I started with 4 lads from London on the 3 Peaks Challenge. We knew right away it was going to be hard work as it had been snowing all night and still snowing up high. We got below the half way lochain and hit the snow line. As we got high the snow got deeper! The team ended up moving quite slowly and their clothing and footwear was not up to scratch for this summit so I decided we would head down and thaw out. Every other team we saw had turned back due to being ill prepared. One team had summited, however they were very well kitted out. The lads decided to come back in the summer and climb all the 3 peaks in one go so we didn't carry on to Scawfell. Today I was working for Activus Outdoors.

Cold Scrambling in the Lakes

Winter is only around the corner and Emma and I could really feel it! Today we climbed Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag. It's a great little climb with pleanty of interest and dispite being very cold, it was very enjoyable. Its a North Facing route so we never saw any sun until we topped out. The were signs of freezing temperatures on the groud and it looks like a great route to come back to in full winter conditions.

Northumberland

Today Emma and I headed out to meet up with Ben at Bowden Doors. This sandstone scar provides great climbing of all grades on short routes and boulder problems. A busy sunday we saw SPA assesments, many boulderers, lots of climbing teams and several soloists. We climbed many routes from VD to E2 5c. Its a great crag, quick drying and a bit of a sun trap. All the starred routes are of good quality and the gear is good when you need it.

Back in the Lakes

Today Emma and I wen cragging at Castle Rock in Thirlmere whilst Jamie Hageman (who has an exhibition in Kendal, CHECK IT OUT) went for a walk up Blencathra. Emma and I climbed several routes from VD to VS4c. It was very windy again but the rain just managed to stay away all day. Nobody else was up at the crag but there were alot of walkers on Blencathra.

Aonach Eagach

After a drive up to a very wet Scotland last night Emma and I decided to do the Aonach Eagach. Emma has wanted to traverse this route for a while so she was very excited. She also wanted to walk in the dark with her head torch so we set off at 6.15am, she was very pleased! She also wanted a wet day as most of the days we have been out have been pretty dry, she was not disappointed. We got soaked to the skin. Not surprisingly we didn't see anyone else braving the 60mph gusts and constant rain!! We finished the traverse very quickly, too cold to hang around and walked back along the A82 back to the car. A brilliant day despite the weather, lots of soggy clothing hanging up!

Pinnacle Ridge

Today was scrambling day for Mike, so I suggested Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag. I hadn't done this route before so I was really pleased to get on it. It has some great little technical sections and some areas which require a cafeful judgement to safeguard your seconds. Perfect for Mike who was leading his boys up. I was soloing around giving Mike pointers as we went along, then I took over for a section so Mike had the opportunity to see how I guide two clients on graded terrain. It was a very sunny day but unfortunatly we were in the shade on the whole route which made it a very cold asscent. Look forward to doing this in winter conditions.

MIA Preperation

Today I met up with Mike who I did my MIA training with in 2009. He has his assessment coming up so he asked me to head out with him for a couple of day to discuss and practice relevant content for the assessment. Today we looked purely at rope work. We covered stance management, looking after two client (his two boys), switching from parallel to series and other rope work tricks. We then went on and looked at rescues and more rope work techniques. Mike has been on several AMI refreshment courses which helped us advance on very well.

North Face of the Eiger 1938 Route

I never imagined that I would climb this route on my first Alpine climbing trip! The right partner, weather and conditions allowed it to happen. Kenny and I had been keeping a close eye on the weather in Switzerland and spotted a good spell of settled weather. We left Chamonix and headed over to the Grindlewald valley, to be greeted by an awesome looking Eiger. The weather looked good. We heard that the route had been climbed recently and, with reports of good conditions, we prepared to get stuck in. We headed up to the foot of the mountain and bivied below the route for an early start. We set off at 7 am and arrived at the Traverse of the Gods Bivi at 6.30 pm. After a reasonable night's sleep, we set of at 7 am and topped out at midday. The route was in excellent condition. We overtook one other team on the face and were later overtaken Uli Steck and partner who were 'running' up the route! The climbing was amazing, several quite hard sections and very absorbing climbing. By far the best route I have ever climbed!

Alps Route 2

On our way down from The Ginat we had great views of the Grande Jorasses. Kenny had a few route in mind and we could see the face was in good nick. After returning to Chamonix we had a restful evening (poco loco's and beer) and the next morning we gathered together our gear and headed back up the Valley Blanche to the base of the Grand Jorasses. We were wanting to do The Croz Spur via the Slovenian start. After a long walk in we bivi'd at the base of the cliff and set off in the morning. We decided to start on the Croz as the Slovenian line didn't look in condition. During the night it rained, Kennys head torch ceased to work, we ended getting off route a little which took up a bit of time and we realised that it may be better the head back down. The route didn't seem to be in top condition so we made a few abseils back to the glacier and walked out. Will defiantly be back for some unfinished business! The Colton-Macintyre route had two teams on and looked in great condition.