Wet and Windy

Despite the bad weather Izzi and I got up to Aonach Mor for a little run around in the snow. Temperatures were high and snow was thawing rapidly. We found patches of ice here and there to use our crampons and the wet snow was great for sliding on. We spent the day over at the Nid area, eventually working our way up the ridge and had a dig at bucket seats and snow anchors. Not a great day for hanging around.

Little Shephard of Etive

Today Emma was out for her first winter walk and we just wanted something small and sweet. We headed into Glencoe and took a wander up Buachaille Etive Beag. On the bealach we decided to just go up onto Stob Dubh (958m) and catch the nice views over onto Glen Etive. We talked about avalanche awareness on the move, looking at hasty pits, walking ruchsblock test and identifying visable signs of snow transportation. Several other walkers were out enjoying the spectacular views and great weather.

North Face Route

Today Graham and I headed up to Buachaille Etive Mor. We got on North Face Route (V,6), a route that rarely sees traffic in the winter. It was brilliant. Quite a bit of snow to clear but turf was bomber and cracks were clear. Every pitch had a tricky bit on it and I found it quite tiring. We abbed down from the top of the route back to the start in 3 full 60m abseils. Great day. Several other teams on Curved Ridge. Time for a take away!

Snow Ploughing

This morning Graham had a physio appointment at 9am so we had a late start, leaving the car at 10.40. We headed up into Stob Coire nan Lochain in Glencoe and arrived up there at 11.40. We saw several teams out, counted about 6 parties. All on Dorsal Arete! I think all the gear placements and belays will be nice and clear. As we only had a short amount of daylight left. We went up Scabbard Chimney (V,6), and then once we got onto easier ground we abseiled back down. It was pretty hard going clearing off all the snow but is a great route which I have wanted to do for a while. The winds were pretty low today and plenty of blue sky around.

Perfect Choice

Today I was kick starting my next winter stint with a trip over to the Cairngorms with Kenny. We met up with Andy, Kennys client, aswell for a very sociable day. It was disgusting weather leaving Fort William at 6am but as we got further East it was clearing up nicely. On arrival to the crag it was blue skies and a cold wind. We firstly climbed The Message (IV,6), topped out at 1pm, nipped back down and then climbed the Direct Start (IV,5) to Hidden Chimney (III). Many other teams out today on routes like Fingers Ridge, Jacobs Ladder, Original Route (I think), The Runnel and a few others. Snow was falling quite heavily as we were driving back to Fort William.

Dorsal Arete

Today was Emma's second day out in the winter and she was super keen for some more climbing. We went and climbed Dorsal Arête (II) in Stob Coire nan Lochain in Glencoe. Again the weather was perfect and the mountain was near to empty. Al Halewood was on Twisting Gully which looked to be in good condition. Dorsal was in excellent condition with really good firm neve all the way.

Ledge Route

Today was Emma's first winter climb. Infact it was her first winter day out in the mountains. I chose Ledge Route (II) on Ben Nevis as it is a really quality day out and never too difficult and exposed. The weather was perfect today, hardly any wind, no cloud and wall to wall blue skies. We went onto the summit as Emma had never been up there in winter. To say she was impressed would be an understatement! We saw teams on Tower Ridge, Gargoyle Wall and a team climbed up number 4 gully.

Launchy Gill

Today Izzi and I made our way over to Thirlmere and went for a look at Launchy Gill (III). On arrival it was clear the lower pitches were not in condition but the 20m steepening was good sport. We spent quite a while there looking at ice climbing techniques, this was Izzi's 2nd winter climb. When we stuck to the right of the Ice fall it was grade III, but further left it felt good at grade IV. Several other teams climbed on by and some carried on up for the upper pitches.

Taliballan

Today Rich, Jamie and I took the long walk (3 hours) into Stob Coire an Laoigh in the Grey Corries. We had the crag too ourselves and the walk in was steady going. The crag was in great condition, the left hand side of the crag was pretty covered with snow however the right side was more suitable. We climbed Taliballan (V,6). It was a great route, I linked the first two pitches together, Rich linked the 3rd and 4th and I led the final pitch. The route is pretty sustained with interesting and tricky climbing on each pitch. There was alot of clearing of snow to do but other than that its in great condition. Well worth the 3 hour walk in! Heading back to the Lake District tomorrow, back in Scotland next month.

Darth Vader

This morning I woke up to quite a good dusting of snow in Fort William, the roads were covered, as was my car. I met up with Ken Applegate and we headed into the Ben. We had both agreed that we would like to do Gargoyle Wall but on viewing Creag Coire na Ciste we could see that we hadent beaten the weekend climbers. We could see from the first moment that a team was on Gargoyle wall but we headed up there regardless. Everyone else we passed seemed to want to do Gargoyle Wall as well! As the climbers were still at the first belay and on the ground we decided to climb Darth Vader (VII,7) instead. The route looked and was in great condition, Ken led up the first pitch to the base of the chimney and I took us up through the next two pitches. Ken then took over again and led the final pitch to the summit plateau. We descended Number 3 Gully. Other teams were on Babylon, Sioux Wall, Lost The Place, Wendigo, Un Journee dans un Enfer Quotidien (i think), The Slab Climb and I'm sure a few more.

Sioux Wall

As the routes up high on the Ben looked good yesterday, Kenny and I headed up to Number Three Gully Buttress and climbed Sioux Wall (VIII,8). Kenny made quick leads on the harder pitches and we finished the route quite quickly. The route was in perfect condition with great climbing throughout. We descended Number Three Gully. Not many climbers out today. Snow falling at the moment in Fort William.

A Hidden Gem

Today Graham and I headed up high on the Ben to Creag Coire Na Ciste. Everything was looking very white so we decided to get onto The Lost Place (V,5). This is a really good mixed route with lots of great climbing and a great finale! All the turf was bomber and placements were great. I'm surprised this route isn't climbed more often. Defiantly worth the 3 stars! We descended Number 4 Gully. We saw a team in Number Two Gully and Gargoyle Wall.

Back in Scotland

Today I kicked off with my winter season with a quick route up on Bidean Nam Bian West Top. Jamie B and I went in for a look as it's a high crag so we thought it would be ideal. We looked at a couple of different route but the didn't look in so we climbed The Gash which felt about IV,4. It was a pleasant climb but could have done with a little bit more of a freeze/thaw cycle. We came down Hourglass Gully (I). Other teams were on Crypt Route.