Monday 28 January 2013

Turquoise Gully

Simon leading up some great snow


Lloyd getting pummeled on the lead

Simon bring Andy and Lloyd up
Today I was back out with Simon and Lloyd and we also had Andy along. We had very high winds forecast so we headed to Meall Gorm to climb Turquoise Gully (III,4). A short walk in and sheltered crag. The thaw has had a slight effect and removed a lot of snow but actually made the ice really good to climb on, like some sweet toffee. I led the first pitch to get a feel of conditions then I was happy for Simon and Lloyd to lead each other and Andy up the route whilst I soloed just ahead of them. The guys were moving slickly as they both have a good rock climbing backgrounds and dealing with the winter technicalities very well. Gear, good techniques, belays were flowing like clockwork. After topping out into the wind we walked 50m and made our way down (all slipping and ending up in a bum sliding position, totally accidental!) the descent gully to the bottom of the route and traversed back to the van. A great day escaping the wind.

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