Dubh's Ridge

Nice commute to work

Team loving the boat ride in

A bit of rain doesn't dampen moral

Second day with Rory, Phil, Rupert and Mark.  Unfortunately Rupert was unable to join us on the hill, however he played a key part to the logistics by doing a wee bit of driving to make our life a bit easier.  Today was started by a high speed rib from Elgol into Loch Coruisk where we started the longest climb in the uk.  750m of amazing slab climbing.  I had never done this route before so it was great to work with Donald who has ascended this route several times and found all the best sections.  The team became slab masters by the end of this and were moving so well we went on to summit Sgurr nan Eag after we topped out on Sgurr Dubh Mor.  Another brilliant day and some new territory for me.  The boat ride in cant help but put a smile on your face.  The best way to start any day!

Looong way down

No need for a caption here

Endless fun!

Donald leading the team up super grippy rock!

Anything goes apparently! 

Summit

Coire Lagan Round

Rupert trying to be Sean Connery. 

Rupert and Rory on getting a true Skye experience

Clouds lifting

Today was definitely in the top 5 days I've had on the Isle of Skye to date.  Fantastic clients, fantastic route, improving weather and all guided with a brilliant friend.  Donald and I took out Rory, Phil, Mark and Rupert who were all a brilliant laugh and genuinely great company on the hill.  These guys absorbed all the information Donald and I could throw at them and were thirsty for more.  We completed the Coire Lagan Round, a super route taking in some of Skye's most iconic pieces of rock.  The Cioch, Sgurr Alasdair, Skye's highest peak, Hart's (Collies) Ledge, An Stac and finished the day on the In Pinn in fantastic sunshine.  What a day!

Rory Flexing, Rupert rubbing!?

An Stac...amazing climbing

Our route...right to left

Top of the Inaccessible Pinnacle

Simpson full squad on the field

Alan and Annie ready for action

Today was the final day with the Simpson’s and Alan wanted his partner Annie out today so we lowered the technicality and distance of the day and walked up past the fairy pools and climbed on to Sgurr an Fheadain via its nice grade 1.5 North West ridge.  Again the weather was kind and we managed to avoid all rain which made Annie really glad she came out.  Turns out Annie has caught the climbing bug, she says it beats walking across flat bogs and knee deep heather.  So true. This week I have been working for Skye Guides.

Jules and Andrew cruising up the ridge

Jules picking out harder options

Andrew enjoying the escape into the mountains

Everyone enjoying the dry rock

Simpson juniors press on the gas

The task in hand

the finest mountaineering route in the UK?

Today Alan wanted a rest day so Jules, Andrew and I made a full traverse of the Clachglas - BlaBheinn traverse.  As the boys are super active orienteering competitors we were able to move over the ridge at a rapid pace making good time for a complete round trip to the car.  There were two other teams in our wake who had also made a good choice as we only had a short spell of rain and had some pretty good views.

Hero shots

It doesnt get much better! 4 star route

Nearly there

There were no views but we went to all the summits

Simpson's do the In Pinn

Clear for now with Team Simpson

After more analysis of the forecaster's we still didn't find a window for a traverse.  So today we went to climb the In Pinn and continue over to Sgurr na Banachdich.  It was pretty ‘Scottish’ today on the mountains, had it been a tad windier and wetter we would have gave the In Pinn a miss.  Fortunately everyone was so gripped there would be no letting go of the rock.  Visibility was about arms length, maybe a touch further so it didn't feel exposed at all today!  Quite busy on the In Pinn as it was meant to be the nicest day of the week!  Yeah right!

Last of the Views

On the In Pinn....we think!?

Summit Smiles

Sunny everywhere else except the summits

Simpsons on Skye

After yesterdays thorough soaking I managed to get everything dry and I met up with the Simpson trio of father Alan and two sons Jules and Andrew.  I’m pretty sure Alan is my eldest client to date weighing in at a super fit 70 years old.  I hope I am that fit when I’m 70!  So to celebrate Alan turning 70 he wanted to do a full ridge traverse with his two son’s coming along to be sherpa’s.  After spending a wee while dissecting various weather forecast it became apparent that a traverse wasn't on the cards.  Today we went for a shake down day to see how the group fair up on wet rock and high winds.  We went up onto the midsection via An Dorus and onto Sgurr a’ Mhadaidh and over to Sgurr a’ Ghreadaidh which was living up to its name ‘peak of the thrashing winds’.

Sgurr na Banachdich was an option but in today's conditions it would have been very draining for the group and we didn't want to over do it on the first day.  No photo’s today as my camera isn't waterproof and I didn't want to risk it!

Back to work

Blimey...ok, I have had a good few weeks both overseas and here in the UK.  It has been lovely weather and I've been out with great company.  The 8 hours of persistent rain didn't bring down my spirit though.  In fact I quite enjoyed it.  It was warm but wet and Colin was fantastic company who shared my love for the rain too!  We had a cracking day on Skye by completing a traverse of the Northern 3 Munros; Sgurr nan Gillean, Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe.  Now considering every nook and cranny was soaked we made good progress and were off the hill no later than an 8 hour round trip.  There are still large patches of snow which we had to cross which is mainly soft and easy to negotiate with stiff boots, a pole and with relevant experience as we did, otherwise crampons would be very, very useful and will give the inexperienced and nervous plenty of confidence.  Didn't dare take my camera out today...far too wet.

Glen Nevis

An opportunity to snatch a day rock climbing before I start the next 'mega' stint of work was too good to miss.  The forecast was dry and clear.  What I didn't expect was the cold...it was freezing...must keep moving!  I had 3 climbing partners today, all only available to do a few hours throughout the day.  Kenny and I started off on Vincent (E3 5c) which I led as Kenny has done it a few times before.  The Ewan joined us and I led Diode (E2 5c), Kenny then made a dash for home so Ewan and I climbed Slatehead Slab (E2 5c) which was good but a little dirty...not much traffic for a while I think.  We then went to Blacks Crag and I tried the bold Land Ahoy (E3 5b) but got scared with the lack of gear so traversed onto Shergar (HVS) and finished up that.  Ewans time to leave now so I met up with Graham for a quick burn on The Web (E2 5c) and then over to After Crag and Graham led Rubberface (E1 5b)...or some choss to the right of it...So all in all a great day, Last year I hardly climbed here and wish I had more time to climb all the routes.  Off to Skye now for a month, hopefully it will be sunny and I'll take some pictures!

Creag Dubh

I just love this crag, such good rock, brilliant climbing, super scary at times and lots to do.  The weather was beautiful, the guidebook author was at the crag (Gary Latter) so it was a nice sociable day and good to see a jedi doing what he does best...climbing.  We had a nice haul of routes starting off with Jump for Joy (E2 5c) then followed by the brilliant bold Erse (E3 5b).  Lou then went on to lead Phellatio (HVS 5a) and I then finished up on Jump So High (E2 5c) which is a brilliant pitch.  We were thinking...'where are all the climbers?' Brilliant weather, dry rock, empty crags? Unfortunately no pictures today.

Loch Maree Crag

Blair on Arial

Today was my final day up in the North West and it was another stunning day.  Murdoch and I went to Loch Maree Crag and met Ian and Blair who had camped on the beach, quite an amazing setting.  Jarldom Reach (E5 6b), Arial (E3 5c), Spirit Air (E5 6a) were all climbed today (not by me though) as well as Ian doing a new route after Murdoch and I had left...sounded hard anyway!  A super crag with some steep lines.  Unfortunately having developed a pretty nasty cold over the last few days, sitting in a shady damp heap of heather wasn't doing me any good so Murdoch and I spent the afternoon chilling in the sun drinking orange juice for some vitamin C and soaking up the sun for some vitamin D.

Scotland at it's best

Murdoch cruising another E5/6 6a

Murdoch and Blair

Diabaig

From the car park

Today was a wee bit damp as we left the Ling Hut, our cosy accomodation for two nights.  With the showers clearing we went down to Diabaig where the rain had cleared and left plenty of dry rock, a nice sea breeze and plenty of sunshine.  As like most crags here in the North Wesr, Murdoch didnt have many routes he needed to do so I got us warmed up on the brilliant 4 star route The Pillar (E2 5b).  A route that was wet last time I was here.

Murdoch cruising up Rubblesplitskin

After this Murdoch unleashed.  Firstly on Rubblesplitskin (E3 5c) and then made a brave effort on Local Hero (E6 6a).  To see the relief on Murdoch's face when he topped out was priceless!  Quite a serious proposition.  We then went over to The Main Cliff and we climbed The Black Streak (E1 5c) and then back to the hard stuff for Murdoch to lead Edgeward Whymper (E4 5c).  Again a brilliant haul of routes in such a fantastic setting.  Climbing here is very special whether on the amazing HVS's or the scary E6, something for everyone.  Make a trip!

Mucdoch checking options on Local Hero.

Loch Tollaidh Crags

Murdoch having to take his time on Balding Oldie (E6 6b)

Having just got back from the Alps and spent some time with my family, my next port of call was to meet up with Murdoch in the NW for a few days climbing.  Last year we took 5 days out and Murdoch totally 'beasted' me.  On the first day we climbed 3 multi pitch E5's which kinda broke me for the rest of the week.  I swore to myself I wouldn't let this happen on this trip.  So our first day we went to Loch Tollaidh Crag near Gairloch.  It was a great day as I got to lead 4 routes and Murdoch just got the one.  Ok his was a worthy E6 called Balding Oldie but my haul of In the Pink (HVS 5b), Buena Vista (E2 5b), Water Lily (E2 5c) and Strip-teaser (E4 5c) made for a really good day and not a bad effort after spending months on skis and wading around deep snow,  The weather was perfect, vegetation low, nie climbing and I had energy to make a reasonable dinner that night!  Cant wait to get back there.

A very quick hit to the Alps

Our first night in the Alps

Not a terrible place to be holidaying

I haven't had many trips to the Alps but when I have they have generally been very fulfilling and crammed with steep cliffs, granite spires, icy couloirs and plenty of snow.  Usually my 10 day's/2 weeks are crammed with maximum hill time, some say not much of a holiday as I usually come home a little tired.

The brutal skin, beautiful though.

Chopper bringing in the grub, I love a good chopper performance!

I stood on top of that....na na nan na naaa!

Crab crawling, much fun!

This past trip involved most thing I enjoy in the alps however my vision did not flourish.  The success to my previous trips has been down to many factors, some which I didn't account for on this trip.

Shuffle and slide

However, I had a great little ski tour with Lou on the Verbier high level tour with some great summits and nice ski descents.  I probably experienced some of the warmest skinning I have ever endured... definitely didn't have enough water on one particular day.

After a wee ski tour it was North Face time.  Lou and I met up with Kenny, Chadders and Miles and we set off from our bivi at 2am in the morning with the intention of climbing the North Face of the Charmoz.  A fine looking face that doesn't come into condition all the time. Let's just say I have unfinished business up there.

North Face of the Charmoz

Mmm rock climbing in the sun

Feeling a little deflated I spent the next 3 days cragging in the sun, partying with friends then making the journey back to the UK to spend some unexpected quality time with my family.  Scotland tomorrow and I have a good chunk of time off still before I start work so I'm heading up to the Elphin hut for 4 days rock climbing and catching up with some friends.

Costa Blanca Part 2

Next stop ... the pavement!

Down we go!

Ok I will hold my hands up.  My enthusiasm got the better of us.  Day 4 and I had another plan up my sleeve. A 9 pitch HVS up the most striking feature on the Costa Blanca.  Diedro UBSA on the South Face of Penon de Ifach.  Unfortunately I didn't take into consideration that John has been maxing out for the last 3 days so we should have opted for a rest day straight away.  Anyway the 2 pitches and 2 abseils we did were great, we got dive bombed by sea guls, looked around another marina and topped up on more vitamin D, not a total wasted day.

The Bernia Ridge

We did get worried as the white stuff came in from the left..

Our 5th day we went for the mighty Bernia Ridge, another opportunity to keep the weight on our legs and rest the arms.  So, fantastic scrambling on bone dry limestone, in blue sky weather with a sea breeze...what's not to like?  John enjoyed the crux so much he threw a quick draw back down so he could be lowered and climb it again..!  We had the ridge to ourselves until the final summit of 1126m.  It was shorter than the Cuillin but nicely sustained.

It was very windy here...when I said 'smile' I didn't mean let go!

All good fun!

Today, we went for it, I wanted to tick the whole of the Costa Blanca guidebook, however we settled for the brilliant Puig Campana (1406m).  We had a view of this giant from our apartment and knew we had to climb it.  The classic Espolon Central, 13 pitches, early start...no problem!  "Ahh John.....slight problem" "What" "didn't pack my climbing shoes".  John response..."Oh"  Maybe I'm too stubborn or just too lazy but I didn't want to walk back down without climbing this route so we pressed on and I led the 13 pitches in my trainers which turned out to be far more comfortable than I could have imagined!

Pitch....12 I think

After a interesting beach/dinner experience in Benidorm we headed back to the ranch and John was happy to finish on a high so we are having a relaxed day tomorrow then catching a flight in the afternoon.  The drams are flowing and it's been a fantastic 6 days climbing...despite being constantly dehydrated!  This is a must for winter sun and spring time rock climbing strength!

The view didn' change much, it was nice!