Wednesday, 30 June 2010

Dolche and Gabbana


Well not quite but Dan and Graham were out with me today. Aim of today was to do some scrambling, rock climbing, navigation, flora and fauna identification and get a sun tan. Everything got ticked off today. We headed into Landgale and up to Stickle Tarn where I led them both up Harrison Stickle East Ridge (grade 1). We then walked over to Pike of Stickle and I led them down the West Ridge (grade 2/3). From here we traversed around the face of PofS and climbed up the South face, probably around VD. After topping out I gave Graham and Dan some navigation challenges and we discussed many of the plants and flowers we were seeing around us. Another hot day after a wet night. We then headed to Kendal Climbing wall for some rescue training.

Monday, 28 June 2010

3 peaks


I have spent the weekend ticking off the 3 highest peaks on mainland Britain. I was working for Mountains to Water who are regular organisers of the national 3 peaks challenge. We had a group of 23 challengers split between Mike, Zac Poulton and I. The weather was great, my group just got off the hill before the heavens opened on Ben Nevis, our final summit. The whole team had a thoroughly enjoyable event, some even said they would do it again...

Thursday, 24 June 2010

Double D


Today I went out with the two Dans. Both more seasoned single pitch climbers and boulderes so they were keen to pick up some multi-pitch skills as we went along. We went down to Langdale Boulders for a warm up first then headed over to Raven Crag. We started off on Evening Wall (S) then went up Billberry Buttress (VS 4c). Found the remains of a bird in pettet form, still with its identification tag around a bone. Quite a few other teams out today despite the early morning drizzle.

Last Day in Wales







Weather wasn't looking great today so I went for a walk looking at some micro-navigation and plant life identification. I set off from Pen-y-pass and headed over to Dinas Mot and back again. Plenty of different plants along the way and not many people. Then drove back up to the Lakes.

Wednesday, 23 June 2010

Solo trip day 2


Today I headed out to Tremadog and had a good look at the crag, checked out where all the routes started and checked out all the decent options. After this I headed out to Clogwyn yr Oen and had a go on some of the routes. I climbed Kirkus Climb Direct (S), Slack (S) and two other VD's but can't remember the names. Lots of other groups out teaching novices the art of trad climbing. Again I headed back to the pass and finished off the day with a sesh on the Cromlech Boulders.

Tuesday, 22 June 2010

Solo trip day 1

Yesterday I drove down to Wales for a little recce mission. Today was an early start and I headed up to the East Face of Tryfan. I started off on Gashed Crag (VD) which was a great route, topped out and thought I had the mountain to myself, I didn't, a girl asked if I could help her and her boyfriend down who seemed a bit crag-fast! I wanted to do another route so I suggested we go down North/little Gully so we end up at the bottom of the crag again. So after helping them down I set of on Grooved Arete (HVD), again another great route. This time after topping out I headed down the North Ridge and ended up at Milestone Buttress. I climbed Direct Route (VD), Pulpit Route (VD) and Rowan Route (D). After this I headed back to the car for some lunch. Then I walked up to Idwal Slabs and climbed The Ordinary Route (D) and then Hope (VD). As it was such a hot day I had to go for a swim in the Llyn Idwal (mountain lake) which was incredibly refreshing! Finished the day off with some bouldering at the Cromlech Boulders.

Saturday, 19 June 2010

Quick blast


This evening Dan and I headed upto Castle Rock again and climbed May Day Cracks (VS 5a). Dan led the first pitch and then I fininshed up the route. The second pitch is quite sustained and quite tricky, Dan is new to leading and really pleased I didnt let him lead the second pitch! Off to North Wales tomorrow for 3 days!

Friday, 18 June 2010

Scorcher!!

I'm not sure what the temperature was today but it was boiling! I met up with Cal this morning and we had a last minute change of plan and headed up to Sergeant Crag Slabs in Borrowdale. I have wanted to get up to this crag for a while and see what all the hype was about. I wasn't disappointed. Cal led up Lakeland Cragsman (HVS 5a) for a warm up. I then led up Aphasia (E2 5b) which is a great slab climb on small pockets and cracks and then Cal led up Holly Tree Crack (E1 5b). By this point it was very warm and I think I was a little burnt so we were thinking about going for another swim. We decided against this and walked over to Bleak How and climbed Bleak How Buttress (E2 5c) which is an amazing route. A quality 3 star challenge. A great day cragging finished with a disappointing football result. After sun lotion is required now!!

Thursday, 17 June 2010

Quick as I can

Today I want for a climb with Dan after work, he had a drive home after so he only wanted a quick route. I have done all the easier routes at this crag so I persuaded him to follow me up Thirlmere Eliminate (E1 5b) on Castle Rock. I shot up the first pitch, the second pitch was a little scary as there wasn't a huge amount of gear to be had once you swing out onto the arete, and even getting onto the belay was hard! After a quick rope tangle, I went up the last pitch, protection was only adequate but the climbing was never really hard. Dan got boxed and fell off twice. We then abbed off and darted for the cars. One other team were on Overhanging Bastion.

Friday, 11 June 2010

2 day trip down South

Dave and I headed down into Yorkshire for some limestone sport climbing. The plan was to climb at Kilnsey however on arrival it was far to windy and cold, so we opted for Malham instead which was perfectly sheltered. We spent two days there climbing a handful of routes and getting very burnt out. We climbed/worked 6 routes over the two days ranging from 7a to 7b+. I think I will be visiting Malham alot more in the future, its so good for training.

Friday, 4 June 2010

Steep and pumpy

Today Dave and I headed up to Black Crag on the Pike of Blisco in Langdale. This small outcrop of Rhyolite reminded me of climbing in Skye. Not for the size and situation but the roughness of the rock. It is a single pitch crag so Dave and I decided that we would both lead every route we did. We started on The First Touch (E1 5b), Yellow Fever (E2 5b), Sleep on my Pillow (E1 5b), Pocket Crack (E3 6a), Dave's Arete (E1 5c)(solo), Glass Slipper (E2 5b) and Mind of Fixed Abode (E1 5a)(solo). The crag caught the sun all day but the like breeze kept the temperature perfect. A couple other teams at the crag and plenty of spectating walkers. A great crag!

Thursday, 3 June 2010

Hot rock

OK, firstly I need to pack my camera more. Haven't had any photo's for ages. Anyway Cal and I headed up to Bramcrag Quarry down near Thirlmere for the evening. Two other colleagues of Cal's from Needle Sports joined us for a very sociable evening. Its a relatively newly bolted quarry so I don't have a topo or route names but Cal and I took turns leading up an E1 5b, an E2 6a and an E2 5c. The routes do have a couple of bolts but trad gear is also needed. The route's we did were really quality, each one worth one more star than they were originally given!

Saturday, 29 May 2010

Trip up North

I headed up to Scotland yesterday for 3 days scrambling work. Today I went up Ledge Route on Ben Nevis with father and son combo Chris and Peter. They had never been on technical ground but have had their fair share of mountain walking. Unfortunately I had injured my knee a week ago running, I thought it had healed, it hadn't! So as we topped out on the route it was apparent I wasn't going to be able to do the next two days. Anyway I pushed on to the summit with the guys where it was very busy. I hobbled my way back down the mountain had a couple of sneaky beers to ease the pain. Back to the Lakes I think.

Tuesday, 25 May 2010

Problem with the Lakes...Parking


I met up with Johnny today who had just done a learn to lead course yesterday and wanted to get a bit more mileage. He was up for climbing some harder route and also some classic. We didn't have time to go up high and he wanted to get to know Borrowdale a little better. So we headed off to Black Crag but there was no parking, we went to Shepard's Crag instead. We started off on Jackdaw Ridge (D), johnny led 2 pitches. I then led him up Fishers Folly (VS 4c). We then went back to Black crag car park, still full. So off to Quayfoot Buttress (VD) where Johnny led all the pitches. Nice hot day and lots of good climbing.

Monday, 24 May 2010

BBQ at Bowderstone

This evening a crew of us went down to the premier bouldering destination in Borrowdale for beers, BBQ and some sore fingers. I had never climbed here and it is ace, a little polished in areas but some great problems. Lots of steep routes and a couple of easier routes to get warmed up on. I think I will be heading back down there pretty soon.

Saturday, 22 May 2010

Sooo Hot!


Today was a scorcher, apparently hotter than Ibiza! Anyway, I met up with Cal from Needle Sports after we finished work and headed up to Black Crag in Borrowdale. We thought it would be a nice idea to do a long route in the sun as it was setting in the distance. We went for a link up of Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect (HVS 5a) and Raindrop (E1 5b). Cal linked pitch 1 and 2 together to get us to the base of the crux pitch, then I led on, linking the next two pitches to complete 120m of climbing. A great routes on a perfect evening.

Burnt!



Forgot the suncream and climbed at Raven Crag in Langdale. Not a good idea. I met up with Isi and Tom and spent the day ticking off more of the lines down there. Tom was new'ish to climbing so just followed us up routes and Isi and I swapped leads on everything. We stared on The Original Route (S) to get warmed up, then went onto Mendes (VS 4c) which is a great route and then we finished on Bilberry Buttress (VS 4c). A really hot day, quiet crag and a pint to finish the day off!

Thursday, 20 May 2010

Early start

Today Alec and I went up to Castle Rock in thirlmere for a morning climb. Alc had never been to the crag despite driving past it everyday. Alec hadn't led for ages as well so we started off on Via Media (S) and then headed around the corner and climbed Zig Zag (VS 4b) which is a great route. After this time was up and Alec had to go and do some work so I went down to Ullswater Lake!

Monday, 17 May 2010

Old home

Today Dan G and I went out to Swindale (near to where I used to live) up to Gouther Crag. Dan hadn't been climbing outside this season so let me do all the leading, which makes me happy! We were going to start on The Fang (MVS 4a) but we let a team who were at the crag already go on it first. So we started on Kennel Wall (MS) which I did in just the one pitch. We came down and then went up The Fang. After this we had time for 1 more so I went up Bloodhound (E2 5b) which is pretty bold but has excellent climbing on. A real 3 star route I think! Great afternoon climbing on good rock. I'll be going back there soon!

Carrock Fell


Today Dan and I headed up to Carrock Fell (between Penrith and Keswick) boulders for an evening of finger ripping, quartzite pulling. I haven't been up here before so it was good to look around. Some really good problems around on really good rock.

Saturday, 15 May 2010

Testing the Dragons



Today I met up with an old client from The Ice Factor (I took him ice climbing) who I had bumped into in Keswick earlier in the week. The skies were looking pretty grey and wet all day so we held off until the afternoon then headed to Shepards Crag. We had a nice new set of Dragon cams to test out. The did get a good testing too! We started on Little Chamonix (VD) as Dean had never done it, he fell off on the lead on the first pitch and landed on a cam, it held! (Test number 1 complete). He was fine and we topped out by swapping leads. I then really wanted to do the Bludgeon (E1 5b) so Dean set off on the first pitch and then I took the second. Unfortunately Dean was unable to second through the crux so he pulled on the cams I'd placed (test number 2 complete!), he finally got to the top. Dean was super pumped so we had to head home. A wicked route though!!