Costa Blanca climbing

John rehydrating whilst observing the weather take a turn for the worse

Well after 3 days of fantastic climbing I thought I would settle down with some duty free whiskey and make a wee note of what we have been up to.  John is really wanting to push his grade this year so when I suggested we go to Spain for 7 days climbing he jumped at the chance.  I have made an itinerary for the whole week, it took me a while to do as there is so much amazing rock to climb.  The first two days were single pitch climbing, to see what John can and cant climb.  As were staying at Sella, the local crag was ideal.  5 minute drive, 28 second walk in, 9 routes later we were done for the day.  Day two we went into Vall de Guadar and found a fantastic newly developed crag which wasn't polished which gave us another 9 routes in the perfect temps.  In the distance we could see a storm brewing..

Entering the final pitch on the Toix Ridge

Top of the climbing..now time for scrambling

Today our forecast was confirmed and it rained all night and up until about 9am.  This was fine as we knew it was to clear and this allowed time to explore to local marina and drink some lovely coffee.  After a relaxing morning we climbed the Toix Ridge.  It was bloody brilliant.  5 pitches of nice climbing to a fantastic airy ridge that required a wee bit of rope work, especially with the high winds we had.

I know Spain is meant to be warm but it was very windy!

Top of the climbing, scrambing to come

Doesnt look bad but it was super windy!

Thumbs up, start climbing!

After this our day wasn't over.  We hurried down to the sea cliffs to climb the fantastic Magical Mystery Tour.  5 fantastic pitches above the sea given sport grade 5 and felt like a nice HVS 5a.  We made two abseils in, full committed ourselves as we only had 1 60m rope, either a climb out or a swim out would be suffice but fortunately all went to plan.  So all in all a great contrasting day, 5 pitches to a summit ridge followed by two abseils and a fantastic multi-pitch sea cliff climb!

Summit shot

On the sea cliffs...baking temperatures now!

This traverse was by far the psychological crux...don't fall here!

Mmmm bliss

Mmmmm bliss

Ski Touring Albula Alps

Plenty of snow for us..

Did make skiing difficult sometimes...

I have just returned from a great wee trip out in Switzerland with John Orr and Blair Fyffe (aka Dr Snow).  The aim of the trip was to do 5 days in the mountains going from mountain hut to mountain hut, staying high and enjoy some great summits and skiing.

Some skinning was easy...

Getting ready for some descents

Unfortunately it didn't quite go to plan.  Our arrival journey was diverted due to an avalanche that had buried the train track and this was from vest amounts of snow the fell the day we travelled out.  Lots of snow + skiing = perfect?!  Not exactly...the avalanche hazard was high on all aspects so our only options was to stick to slopes less then 30+ degrees.

Myself and John ascending Pic Kesch

John and I on the summit with cool hats on!

We did two day single day tours, one near St Moritz and one from the Julier Pass which involved some pretty nice skinning (mainly because there were tracks in) and some very difficult skiing.  And I don't mean steep gullies...I mean easy angled slopes with snow up to out waists...not easy to ski at all.  The skinning uphill was by far much easier.

Extream side slipping, felt gnarly!  John and Blair watching as I 'check it out'

So after day two the snow settled and were hit the mountains for 3.5 days staying in some really nice huts such as the Kesch Hut and the d'Es-cha Hut.  We did some fantastic summits with Pic Kesch (3147m PD) being the highlight.  The weather gods were on our side for our 3 day tour so currently dealing with a bit of sun burn.

Quiet time on top of the world!  (Well not exactly Everest but felt very tranquil)

The end brought some fantastic gress skiing!

Blair enjoying the powder

John and Blair both taking a rest ;)

Blair needing a rest after some down hill skinning! 

Hi ho hi ho its offf to the mountains we go!

Skinning through an amazing settlement which is abandoned through the winter

Extreme side slipping, John and Blair agree if I can do it then so can they!

John loving the turns!

North West HIghlights

An Teallach

A quick solo saw me on the tops whilst my clients chilled at camp

My North West highlands winter working season has came to an end yesterday as I finished off a Winter Mountaineering course for Moran Mountain, based from Lochcarron.  I'm pretty confident to say that we endured the finest weather seen this winter with 3.5 days of glorious sunshine.  Skills at Fuar Tholl were followed by a traverse of Beinn Eighe's Black Carls in strong sunlight which lead on to the highlight of the week, a two day expedition camping below An Teallach followed by an alpine style traverse of the pinnacles and the Munro's.  We donned our crampons at 4.40am and climbed Cockstone Gully with head torches which allowed us to witness sunrise across Scotland's clear skies.  A breath taking experience and one that will stay with me forever.  What followed can only be described as 'the best day at work I have ever done' and in the top two of my favourite mountaineering days in Scotland!

Sam and Katya ready for their torch lit climb

Near the top of Chockstone Gully

Sam leading Katya and I along the ridge

Looking back across the skyline we just climbed

On holiday and at work

Forcan Ridge

Our objective

Over the last two day's I have been up in the North West finishing off the last two days of a 5 day mountaineering day for Moran Mountain.  The original was to spend a night in a snow hole however the conditions didnt allow.  Yesterday we did some low level navigation and then back to the clients lodge for some rope work.  Today we went and made an ascent of the Forcan RIdge in Glen Shiel.  We had suitable weather for most of the day and were high enough that when it snowed we didnt get wet.  Naturally we got very damp on the walk down but that is pretty standard this season.  Next week is looking nicer, high pressure moving in which will be welcomed with open arms.

Aladdin's Couloir

All or nothing!

Today was something new for me.  With amazing snow conditions we left the climbing gear and took out the ski's for a slide around the Cairngorm's.  Unfortunately I dont have skin's at the moment so we were limited to the ski centre hwever we decided to go for a walk and we ended up at the top of Aladdin's Couloir.  A grade I gully, something I would climb up, not ski down.  We today was different!  First time I have ski'd a graded gully and it was really fun,  We wet a team at the top who had just climbed it in 4 hours, I felt a little smug when I ski'd it in 2 minutes!  A brilliant day!

Norway Ice

Day one

 I have been out in Aurland, Norway working on a Technical Ice climbing course for Moran Mountain.  We climbed lots of steep ice in a place that makes Rjukan look like Kingussie crag!  A truly stunning place with hundred's of ice falls which have never had axes swung into.  Anything from roadside to over 1 hour walk ins if you wish.  Single pitch to huge 8-10 pitch routes.

Day 2 Kitty seconding our First Ascent '2 Bangs and a slap' WI4

Suzanne getting stuck into '2 bangs and a slap'

Scottish conditions followed me to Norway

Suzanne and Kitty happy with our new first ascent

Another abseil down a brilliant 5 pitch WI4

Hanging out

Brilliant WI5 'scottish stylee' gully

More steep ice!

Cool features