Wednesday, 30 June 2010

Dolche and Gabbana

Well not quite but Dan and Graham were out with me today. Aim of today was to do some scrambling, rock climbing, navigation, flora and fauna identification and get a sun tan. Everything got ticked off today. We headed into Landgale and up to Stickle Tarn where I led them both up Harrison Stickle East Ridge (grade 1). We then walked over to Pike of Stickle and I led them down the West Ridge (grade 2/3). From here we traversed around the face of PofS and climbed up the South face, probably around VD. After topping out I gave Graham and Dan some navigation challenges and we discussed many of the plants and flowers we were seeing around us. Another hot day after a wet night. We then headed to Kendal Climbing wall for some rescue training.

Monday, 28 June 2010

3 peaks

I have spent the weekend ticking off the 3 highest peaks on mainland Britain. I was working for Mountains to Water who are regular organisers of the national 3 peaks challenge. We had a group of 23 challengers split between Mike, Zac Poulton and I. The weather was great, my group just got off the hill before the heavens opened on Ben Nevis, our final summit. The whole team had a thoroughly enjoyable event, some even said they would do it again...

Thursday, 24 June 2010

Double D

Today I went out with the two Dans. Both more seasoned single pitch climbers and boulderes so they were keen to pick up some multi-pitch skills as we went along. We went down to Langdale Boulders for a warm up first then headed over to Raven Crag. We started off on Evening Wall (S) then went up Billberry Buttress (VS 4c). Found the remains of a bird in pettet form, still with its identification tag around a bone. Quite a few other teams out today despite the early morning drizzle.

Last Day in Wales

Weather wasn't looking great today so I went for a walk looking at some micro-navigation and plant life identification. I set off from Pen-y-pass and headed over to Dinas Mot and back again. Plenty of different plants along the way and not many people. Then drove back up to the Lakes.

Wednesday, 23 June 2010

Solo trip day 2

Today I headed out to Tremadog and had a good look at the crag, checked out where all the routes started and checked out all the decent options. After this I headed out to Clogwyn yr Oen and had a go on some of the routes. I climbed Kirkus Climb Direct (S), Slack (S) and two other VD's but can't remember the names. Lots of other groups out teaching novices the art of trad climbing. Again I headed back to the pass and finished off the day with a sesh on the Cromlech Boulders.

Tuesday, 22 June 2010

Solo trip day 1

Yesterday I drove down to Wales for a little recce mission. Today was an early start and I headed up to the East Face of Tryfan. I started off on Gashed Crag (VD) which was a great route, topped out and thought I had the mountain to myself, I didn't, a girl asked if I could help her and her boyfriend down who seemed a bit crag-fast! I wanted to do another route so I suggested we go down North/little Gully so we end up at the bottom of the crag again. So after helping them down I set of on Grooved Arete (HVD), again another great route. This time after topping out I headed down the North Ridge and ended up at Milestone Buttress. I climbed Direct Route (VD), Pulpit Route (VD) and Rowan Route (D). After this I headed back to the car for some lunch. Then I walked up to Idwal Slabs and climbed The Ordinary Route (D) and then Hope (VD). As it was such a hot day I had to go for a swim in the Llyn Idwal (mountain lake) which was incredibly refreshing! Finished the day off with some bouldering at the Cromlech Boulders.

Saturday, 19 June 2010

Quick blast

This evening Dan and I headed upto Castle Rock again and climbed May Day Cracks (VS 5a). Dan led the first pitch and then I fininshed up the route. The second pitch is quite sustained and quite tricky, Dan is new to leading and really pleased I didnt let him lead the second pitch! Off to North Wales tomorrow for 3 days!

Friday, 18 June 2010


I'm not sure what the temperature was today but it was boiling! I met up with Cal this morning and we had a last minute change of plan and headed up to Sergeant Crag Slabs in Borrowdale. I have wanted to get up to this crag for a while and see what all the hype was about. I wasn't disappointed. Cal led up Lakeland Cragsman (HVS 5a) for a warm up. I then led up Aphasia (E2 5b) which is a great slab climb on small pockets and cracks and then Cal led up Holly Tree Crack (E1 5b). By this point it was very warm and I think I was a little burnt so we were thinking about going for another swim. We decided against this and walked over to Bleak How and climbed Bleak How Buttress (E2 5c) which is an amazing route. A quality 3 star challenge. A great day cragging finished with a disappointing football result. After sun lotion is required now!!

Thursday, 17 June 2010

Quick as I can

Today I want for a climb with Dan after work, he had a drive home after so he only wanted a quick route. I have done all the easier routes at this crag so I persuaded him to follow me up Thirlmere Eliminate (E1 5b) on Castle Rock. I shot up the first pitch, the second pitch was a little scary as there wasn't a huge amount of gear to be had once you swing out onto the arete, and even getting onto the belay was hard! After a quick rope tangle, I went up the last pitch, protection was only adequate but the climbing was never really hard. Dan got boxed and fell off twice. We then abbed off and darted for the cars. One other team were on Overhanging Bastion.

Friday, 11 June 2010

2 day trip down South

Dave and I headed down into Yorkshire for some limestone sport climbing. The plan was to climb at Kilnsey however on arrival it was far to windy and cold, so we opted for Malham instead which was perfectly sheltered. We spent two days there climbing a handful of routes and getting very burnt out. We climbed/worked 6 routes over the two days ranging from 7a to 7b+. I think I will be visiting Malham alot more in the future, its so good for training.

Friday, 4 June 2010

Steep and pumpy

Today Dave and I headed up to Black Crag on the Pike of Blisco in Langdale. This small outcrop of Rhyolite reminded me of climbing in Skye. Not for the size and situation but the roughness of the rock. It is a single pitch crag so Dave and I decided that we would both lead every route we did. We started on The First Touch (E1 5b), Yellow Fever (E2 5b), Sleep on my Pillow (E1 5b), Pocket Crack (E3 6a), Dave's Arete (E1 5c)(solo), Glass Slipper (E2 5b) and Mind of Fixed Abode (E1 5a)(solo). The crag caught the sun all day but the like breeze kept the temperature perfect. A couple other teams at the crag and plenty of spectating walkers. A great crag!

Thursday, 3 June 2010

Hot rock

OK, firstly I need to pack my camera more. Haven't had any photo's for ages. Anyway Cal and I headed up to Bramcrag Quarry down near Thirlmere for the evening. Two other colleagues of Cal's from Needle Sports joined us for a very sociable evening. Its a relatively newly bolted quarry so I don't have a topo or route names but Cal and I took turns leading up an E1 5b, an E2 6a and an E2 5c. The routes do have a couple of bolts but trad gear is also needed. The route's we did were really quality, each one worth one more star than they were originally given!