Thursday, 27 September 2012
Alan who was out with Glenmore Lodge doing a MIA Assesment. The great thing about Agag's is that it can be climbed even in the wet and as we were on the last pitch it did start to spit. We then made a retreat down the crag via two abseils and scuttled down Curved Ridge in the rain.
Wednesday, 26 September 2012
Today Blair, Dan and I walked through Glen Nevis up towards Steall Falls in rain, wind and general miserableness! Fortunately Steall Hut Crag is permanently dry. Blair has been trying an 8a called Leopold and got back on that. I wasn't feeling too strong today but thought I would give it a shot, just too see what an 8a is like. I did quite surprise myself at how far I got on top rope. The route is very sequency but Blair had all the beta. I managed to get through the crux after falling off loads but it did seam possible for me to climb it in the future. A new project I think. As this is way harder than anything I have climbed before, it should take me quite a while to complete it but I am super psyched!
Monday, 24 September 2012
Saturday, 22 September 2012
here! Callum fortunately doesn't show us evidence of how he's feeling!
Friday, 21 September 2012
Wednesday, 19 September 2012
done Curved Ridge. Whilst popping on waterproofs and gear it cleared up and blue sky appeared all around us. A quick change of plan. We traversed the mountain to get to the bottom of North Face Route (Severe). I had never done this in summer but I did it 2 winters ago to give a sustained V,6 which was fantastic. Climbing the route in summer brought back many great memories of the winter ascent, I bit my lip on some bits, asking myself how I climbed it with crampons and axes?! We followed the exact winter line I took and it had some great pitches of rock in the upper sections. After topping out we nipped over to Rannoch Wall psyched for another route. With only one rope we were unable to abseil back down but fortunately Mike was just abseiling down after climbing Agag's Groove. John had only climbed January Jigsaw on this face. After a chat with Mike we all went to climb another route so we could team up on the abseil. Mike went on January Jigsaw and we set off on Agag's Groove (VD). We caught a team up on Agag's right where Jan Jig crosses, so we decided to shoot up in front of Mike. As John had done these last two pitches we decided to have a go on a rather slippery and slimy Satans Slit (VS), a pitch I had never tried. We topped out and abseiled down with Mike and His client. Thanks Mike! a great day finished by a wee descent down Curved Ridge.
Saturday, 15 September 2012
Wednesday, 12 September 2012
Today Kenny, Deziree and I took the drive back out to Dunkeld for try and finish Hamish Teddy's excellent Adventure (7b+). I put the clips is and reminded myself of the moves. Kenny and Deziree then had a play on it too as I got psyched up for my first red point attempt. Up to the first rest went well where I was able to recover for the crux section, one little error saw me having to down climb but pressed on anyway and found the crux in my wake and shaking out at the heel hook rest. I knew it was in the bag now, just wanted to make sure I didn't mess it up as there is one tricky section before the easy holds. A good shake out and a visualisation of the moves set me up nicely to finish at the chains with a massive grin. Well pleased to get it on my first red point. I then had a look at Marlene (7c) which felt pretty hard....maybe my next project....
Tuesday, 11 September 2012
Another quick drive away from the rain saw Kenny and I standing below this fantastic conglomerate crag. I have been here on a previous visit and climbed the classic Stone of Destiny (6c+) and it was a great place for us to warm up on. I led up placing the clips and remembered how much fun it was. I then went onto lead up Inverarnie Schwarzenegger (7a) on-sight which I was super pleased to get up without falling off. After that we went onto the classic Paralysis by Analysis (7a+) which I fancied on-sighting but unfortunately I popped off near the top with my arms throbbing with lactic acid. Its a fantastic route which is sustained and constantly overhanging. Unfortunately the rain set in, this didnt affect the routes but affected the belayers moral so we agreed that we would bail. More unfinished business to come back for.
Monday, 10 September 2012
Today Kenny and I headed back to Dunkeld as we were both keen to climb Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure, a fantastic sustained 7b+ which moves up the steep and technical wall of Dunkelds Upper Cave Crag. Kenny and I both made good progress, on my first red point attempt I got a sequence wrong and got too pumped trying to correct it and on my 2nd attempt my foot popped off a smear and saw me barn dooring into thin air, unable to vice my fingers tight enough to stay on. Airtime! Feeling really close so hopefully on my next attempt I will get it!
Saturday, 8 September 2012
Friday, 7 September 2012
Today was day two with Erik and Fabian. The weather was clearing from the north-west so we opted for Neist Point, the most westerly point on Skye. We arrived to blue skies and an empty crag. Most of the routes were dry after yesterdays rain and we set up and abseil and went into the Financial Sector, quite fitting as Fabian works in this sector in Switzerland. We started off on Shocks and Stares (HS 4b) which the guys learnt how to fist jam, something they have never had to do on bolted sport routes in their country. Fortunately they were quick learners. After topping out we all abseiled back in and I led them up Midas Touch (VS 4c) which goes up to a wee roof and follows a curving overhang to its end and then pulls through on good holds, a fantastic route. We were all psyched for the route to the right which shared the same start but took another overhang and followed a groove come crack. Hand-jamming-tastic! The guys both did very well on this route too.
Thursday, 6 September 2012
Wednesday, 5 September 2012
Another great day cragging with Kenny. We headed up to the Great Wall and Kenny led up Over The Hill (E3 5c), a fantastic steep jug pull with spaced gear and a little tricky section at the top. A brilliant route. We then went over to Waterfall Wall and I led up Wet Dreams (E2 5c) which was also a wicked route. After this Kenny had a shot on Bratach Uaine (E4 6a) but wasn't able to keep the pump away. He lowered off and I tied in and got up the route before the pump set in. A great route which requires a steady touch in the upper sections. Another great day and a good 9 E points. Off too Skye now for 3 days, hope we have some good weather.
Tuesday, 4 September 2012
Today Kenny and I headed East in search of dry rock as the West coast was surprisingly damp. It turned out to be fantastic over at Dunkeld and we headed straight up to Upper Cave Crag. On arrival we realised we left our wires in the car so all we had was a set of cams. Neither of us fancied heading back down so we just got on Death's Head (E1 5b) and then onto Marjorie Razorblade (E3 6a). Both worked perfectly with only a rack of cams. We then went and climbed Tombstone (E2 5c) before heading onto the sport routes. I hadn't tried the sports routes and we got onto Hamish Teddy's Excellent Adventure (7b+) which was awesome, great climbing up the steep was which is really sustained and interesting throughout. I think a few more goes and I'll have it in the bag. After a few goes on it we were totally boxed and had to retreat from the crag. Psyched to go back!
Monday, 3 September 2012
Saturday, 1 September 2012
Yesterday I arrived in the Lakes to see the family and today I met up with John for a few routes on bolted limestone. Everything felt pretty hard here. Ended up getting super pumped on route which usually feel ok at the grade and tried a couple and got nowhere due to the fact that my forearms were going to explode. I cant remember which routes we did but it was great fun!