In the water

Today I was working with Kath and Spike and we headed into one of the local gorges. The group of 18 kids had never been in gorges so were very excited to get stuck in on the first day of their week long adventure package. In the evening i took a small team of them orienteering around the centre before they headed off to dinner. After dinner I gave a lecture to 40 people about by alpine climbing trip in October. A long day and the ale was superb!

Half day at work

Today I was in acting as a Sherpa today for Matt's group. They were out on a Mountain Skills course and were heading up to camp with there bags. Due to one member of the group being quite unfit, I went along to help get them up to camp so they could dump their kit and go and bag a summit. We went down into Ogwen and the group eventually headed up Pen yr Ole Wen after setting up camp. I ran back down the hill and headed up to the lakes for my sisters wedding.

Helping on an ML Training

Today I was scheduled on to take a group from a Mountain Leader Training course to some steep ground to look at rope work in the ML context. Most of the group haven't used a rope in the hills so we had plenty to cover. We looked carefully at anchor selection, how to attach ourselves to them and safeguard others over different terrain. We also looked at confidence roping, lowering and abseiling. We did all of this up and around the PYG Track which leads up too Snowdon from Pen y Pass. Was a chilly and windy day.

Day off and a new crag explored

Today brought us good sunny weather with a light wind so Caff and I headed up to Diffwys Ddu (Cyrn Las Grey Horn) in Llanberis Pass. I had not been up here before so it was good to get up here while it is dry. Caff had only a couple of routes to do before he had done all the routes on this crag. We started up on The Grooves (E1 5b) and we finished on The Undercut (E5 6b), a route which hasnt had a second ascent. The route had plenty of pegs which are all in great condition with some great pumpy climbing. We then headed back to the bags for a bit of a refuel and I led up The Skull (E4 6a) and Caff went for Wrath of Khan (E6 6b) which takes a groove to the right of pitch 5 on the Skull. Again another route which hasnt had a second ascent. A great day finished with a pint in the Vaynol Arms.

Consolidation Day

Today was day two for the Discover Navigation course and today the weather was looking much more promising in terms of navigating. It was overcast with low cloud. Today we looked at navigation strategies on terrain off the beaten track and looking closely at contour features. We set off from the bottom of the Watkin Path but then branched off left and circumnavigated Yr Aran away from paths and super obvious features.

Navigation Course and evening climb

Today I was directing a Discover Navigation with 6 clients, all who have very little or no navigational skills. The aim of the day was to introduce the basic concepts of using a map and compass. We walked out from the centre and headed up Crimpiau covering all sorts of different terrain and looking at different strategies to get from A to B. The weather was fine and clear today so after work I headed up to Dinas Bach with Tim and Dave and we put a top rope on an E6 which hasn't had a second ascent. I got to the top an all attempts but didn't manage to get it clean.

Rock climbing all day - perfect

Today was the final day for Chris and Tye on the Rock Improvers course. It was a beautiful day so we opted for Flying Buttress (VD) on Dinas Cromlech in Llanberis Pass. They led the whole route with me just hanging around helping out with anything they miss or questions they have. We had just enough time after the route to head down to the the Cromlech Boulders for a little burn out.

After work I headed down to The Great Orme with the two Dave's and Will. We started at Lower Pen Trwyn where I climbed Pinky Pink Snuffs it (7a) and Night Glue (7a+). I then headed up to Mayfair wall and on sighted The Bloods (7a+). 3 great routes in an evening. Feeling a wee bit tired now.

Burning on the rock

Day 2 of Rock Improvers so Chris, Tye and I headed to Clogwyn Yr Oen in the Moelwyns. Chris and Tye got straight on the sharp end and lead up Chic (VD) and then they went on to lead the first two pitches of Slick (VD). The guys then set up an abseil and we headed back to the centre for tea and cakes. This evening I headed out night naving with Jo who has her summer mountain leader assessment coming up. Another long day.

A full day at work

Today I joined day 3 for a Rock Improver's course as it was multi pitch day for my clients Chris and Tye. We headed down to Tremadog and I led them up Christmas Curry and Rio. They were both building belays and getting themselves ready for two days of leading routes themselves. It was an overcast day but fortunately it never rained. When we got back to PYB I took the whole group into the bouldering wall for a technique coaching session, looking at improving their technique and movement. After dinner I had to give an hour long lecture about climbing the Eiger to everybody staying at the centre, a good turnout off 40 odd. A long day at work.

More nav and session by the sea

Today was day two for my navigation team. Today we headed up fro a circuit up and over Cnicht. Weather was really pleasant throughout the day, which usually means navigation was quite easy, so I turned up the difficulty to see what the team are capable of. A strong day from everybody. After work Blair, Caff, Luke and I headed down to the Great Orme for a crank on some sport routes. I sent Night Glue (7a+) and then had a play I've Been A Bad Bad Boy (7c) which was super hard, after Luke put the clips in for me. Caff and Blair were also climbing at their limits and only just got back to their bags before the tide came in!

Intro to Navigation

Today was Day 1 on a Complete Navigation course. I met up with the group who all have little or no map and compass skills so we had lots to get on with. From the centre we headed out south into the forest. Here the group were introduced to basic navigation skills and techniques. We worked our way over the road and headed up to Crimpiau summit for some great views down Ogwen valley and over to Snowdon, before heading back to the centre. After a talk with the group about mountain weather I headed down to the bouldering wall with Blair for a quick session.

Fairhead

Just arrived back from a week away in Northern Ireland sampling some of the countrys best trad climbing. 100m abseil ropes packed, double set of cams packed, vast ammounts of chalk and spare forearms are Fairhead essentials. Not only were we tackling the uber long routes but doing this in some of the foulest weather I have rock climbed in! Winds gusting up to 70mph bringing in cloud and rain. We were all climbing in down jackets where possible and even gloves!We had a team of 10 and between us we climbed around 150 pitches of rock ranging from HVS to E7. I was climbing with Luke for the whole week and we climbed everyday ticking off many of the 3 star classics - Hells Kitchen HVS 5a, Toby Jug E1 5b, Blind Pew E2 5b, Jolly Roger E3 6a, Born to Run E4 6a, The Mask E5 6a plus many more. There are so many amazing routes, 60m crack climbing pitches, amazing grove climbing, face climbing, brutal hand jamming routes, something for everyone. So much new route potential too!! If your thinking about a rock climbing holiday, Fairhead is the answer.

Busy, Busy, Busy

Infact I have hardly had a spare moment to keep track of the routes I've been doing. Over the last month I have been sampling various different venues around North Wales, some local some more distant from Llanberis. The weather has been ideal for lots of cragging with short walk-ins, The Great and Little Orme, LLanberis Pass, Tremadog, Gogarth etc. We have also had some good spells of weather which have dried out the mountain crags such as Craig Y Ysva and areas up around Snowdon. Had a few hits up in the slate Quarries climbing the classic routes aswel. Been super busy at work too, mainly working on climbing courses but also some ML Trainings and navigation courses. Just finished working on the Rapid Development Rock Clinic whis is a month long rock climbing course. Heading off to Fairhead with 9 others tomorrow for a mini break!

Spell of good weather

Been another busy week working at Plas Y Brenin (Crib Goch, Bristly Ridge with Mammut gear testers and Dougal Tavener. Shadowing an ML Assesment today) and its been great weather for after work hits on the rock. On Friday after work James McHaffie and I went up to Clogwyn y Grochan, I led up Slape Direct (E2 5c) and First Amendment (E2 5c) and then Caff led me up Cockblock (E5 6b), I fell of twice but got there eventually. The Next day I went to Tremadog with Emma and I led up Vector (E2 5c) and then we did Belshazar (HVS 5a), two great routes. On Tuesday after work Steve and I went up to Vivian Quarry. Steve led up Last Tango In Paris (E2 5c) and I led up Comes the Dervish (E3 5c), what an amazing route!! Finally today, Steve, Dan and I went and climbed Left Wall (E2 5c) on Dinas Cromlech. I got on the sharp end, got massively pumped, took a big whipper just before the jugs, then finished it off.

Since Scotland

Over the past few weeks I have been really busy down in Wales, mostly working. I have managed to get out to the slate mines climbing 4 times, only once on my day off. Climbed routes like Fool's Gold (E1 5c), Solstice (HVS 5a), Equinox (VS 4c), Geordie War Cry (7a+)(DNF) all at Bus Stop Quarry. Bella Lugosi Is Dead (E1 5b) and The Horsing Around Finish (6a+) near the Rainbow slab area. I been to Tremadog several times, working with the Fast Trackers and on a Touching Stone course. I have just compleated the 14 (15) Welsh peaks with 5 clients which was a fantastic week, great way to see the whole of Snowdonia. I have been mountain biking at Coed y Brenin which was awesome, working on adventure days from the centre and observing on Mountain Leader Assesments. The weather has been quite changeable but the work has been great. Early finish today so going climbing in a few minutes!

MIC Training

I have just returned to Wales after spending 5 days doing my MIC Training with Plas y Brenin. We had quite a changeable week of weather. The first 3 days were good but then we had an uber thaw. John, Ewan, Tom, Stu and I climbed Ledge Route (II). The second day Tom, Phil and I climbed Cutlass (VI,7) and on the 3rd day Tom, Phil and I climbed Original Route (IV,5) on Summit Buttress in Stob Coire nan lochain. fouth day we went up to Anoach Mor and on the final day we went up and down Zig Zags on Gearr Aonach.

Route 1 Direct

Today was my first day back in Scotland so John, Johnny and I shot up the Ben for some climbing. As the winds were high we opted for a lowish route so we went on Route 1 (VI,6) on Carn Dearg Buttress. Its a great route with a really tricky top pitch. Dave and James were on Cutlass, another great low level option. Several other teams were out too.

Work Induction

The last 3 weeks have been spent in North Wales doing an induction to work at Plas y Brenin. Throughout the 3 weeks we went mountaineering in Ogwen Valley, did BMC Fundamental course, rock climbing on Idwal Slabs (clearing snow off the ledges), Holyhead Mountain (in t shirts) and several single pitch crags dotted around. We went sea kayaking around Anglesey and lots of other bits and pieces. One more week of training, then start work!

New Job

I have started working for Plas Y Brenin in Snowdonia. I am here until the end of October.

Thompsons Route

This morning John and I went up Ben Nevis to see what conditions were looking like. I had mixed in mind but on arrival all the buttresses were totally stripped! Another team were up to do Darth Vader but on arrival realised it was a no go. We got on Thompsons route, I have climbed this before so John took the rack and headed up. The ice was very mushy and slushy, not the best conditions I've had so far this season. On the way down Mike was heading up Thompsons, the team who headed for Darth went on Gremlin's, another team headed for either Green Gully or Number 3 Gully Buttress. We were back in Nevis Sport for a brew at 1.30. Heading to the Ice Factor for another session now.

2 Routes Today

Today John and I headed up into Ben Nevis's north face. We headed up to Trident Buttress to climb The Slab Climb (VI,7). This is an excellent route in great condition at the moment. Gear is really good when its needed. We climbed the route in 3 pitches and then traversed off into number 4 gully. We got back to the bags at 1pm so we went and climbed Wendigo (IV,4) on Creag Coire na Ciste. This also was an excellent route which we also did in 3 pitches. All the mixed routes looked good high up on the crag. Other teams on Green Gully, Tower Ridge, North Gully, Jubilee Climb, Gargoyle Wall, Thompsons Route and many more over near Observatory Ridge Area. Ken was out on a route near to us.

Point 5 Gully ... At Last.

I have been up to do this classic Cold Climb on Ben Nevis many times but have always been beaten to it. Not today though. Jamie and I had a super early start and got to the route before anybody else! Unfortunately the visibility was very poor but the ice was superb. Great for climbing on, not very helpful for protection though. The steep pitches felt very run out! And to top it off Jamie's crampon came off on the Rouge Pitch! It went the full distance so we proceeded with Jamie only climbing with one crampon. Step cutting is actually quite good fun on steep ice! Despite this slight draw back we topped out in good time but had to walk down the red burn instead of going down number 4 like everyone else.

Back in Stob Coire nan Lochain

Today I was up early for first light in Glencoe. The views and morning colours were spectacular. As yesterday the crags were looking great. Several teams on Dorsal Arete again, a team had a look in Twisting Gully but decided it hadnt consolidated enough so they retreated.

Chimney Route

Today was another cracking day with very little wind and plenty of blue skies. Campbell and I opted for heading up into Stob Coire nan Lochain in Glencoe for a look at the crags. On arrival there was lots to go for so I suggested doing Chimney Route (VI,6). A route that neither of us had done didn't disappoint. I led the route in 3 pitches to get us onto the crest where we bumped into John and his mate who had just done Twisting grooves. A soloist climbed Dorsal Arete and another soloist on Boomerang Arete. The whole crag is looking great for the mixed routes. We descended Broad Gully.