Monday 27 October 2014

Some longer winter preperation

Easy climbing done, warm jackets on.
Me passing the large chockstone on amazing ice
Tony on the last climbing pitch before more easy romping
Today we opted for a half day for some reason.  We topped out on the 1000m Eugster Couloir Direct  route at 10.30 am.  No we didn't get the lift up, we just set off super early.  We opted for a bivi near the Midi Plan station, we settled in our sleeping bags at 6.30pm trying to get some sleep.  This didn't happen for me but I did count 25 shooting stars and wished for Tony's snoring to stop.  At 3am my wish came true.  So Murdoch, Tony and I brewed up at 3am and wandered over to the route.  From the start we made swift progress up the initial snow slopes to the main section of climbing.  4 or 5 pitches of Scottish 5/6.  6 hours after starting the route we arrived at the Aguille du Midi lift station and headed down for lunch.  It was a brilliant route, Murdoch's first Grande Course, just a shame the difficulties were for only a few pitches.  Now we rest for a day and seek out a route of a more sustained nature...
Murdoch and I with chamonix in the background
Murdoch and his extra long arm
Murdoch

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Sorry Murdoch.  I couldn't resist
Tony and I not paying attention to Murdoch


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