No Blue Skies

Coire An t-Sneachda.  We climbed on the small crag on the left.

News of a settled(ish) winter day had come in and fortunately Murdoch and I had planned about a month ago to climb this weekend.  As Scotland had been pelted by storms, we were pleased our first day out this season was a relatively chilled one.  A perfect opportunity to stretch our legs, have a good catch up and enjoy some nice climbing.  We had several objective's but fortunately we agreed that a nice 2/3 pitch route would suit and something which isn't totally nails and scary.  We wrote off Coire an Lochain and went for the closer option of Coire an t-Sneachda and onto the Mess of Pottage.  Unsurprisingly, we were accompanied by many other teams, it is the weekend after all.  

Murdoch finding some accommodating frozen turf.

Murdoch setting off on the 15m easy middle pitch.

We decided whilst walking that we would climb No Blue Skies (VI,7) which turned out to be a great climb.  Everything we wanted to get our heads back into winter climbing and keep the psyche high.  The first pitch was delicate and sustained, and the top pitch was ....well....I don't think I have hand jammed so much on a winter route before, America must still be fresh in my mind.  The top pitch led into familiar ground of Wachacha (VI,7) which I climbed last year with Blair and Murdoch.  Fortunately the cracks were clearing quite well but we both agreed that it would be very hard to protect in very ice conditions.

Bomber

Faff Faff Faff

The week is looking quite changeable for the next few days and into next week, plenty of thaws and refreezes will lead to good conditions...be patient.  My psyche is high this winter, hopefully get a few more routes done before work starts.

Some cha[ on The Melting Pot, looks ace!