Tuesday, 22 January 2008

Wet on the arete!

Today Tom Kilby and I walked up into Stob coire nan Lochain, Glencoe and climbed Dorsal Arete (II**). Looking at the weather the day before we saw that it was going to get much milder in the afternoon and also start raining around 3ish (and it did!), so we started nice and early and were the first up to the crag. We climbed Dorsal Arete Chimney Variant (IV,5*) in two pitches which was a great little route, turf was good, protection was moderate and the crux was very interesting, a very tight crack trying to spit you off! We then joined onto Dorsal Arete where Tom lead his first ever winter climbing pitch, and considering this was his second ever winter climb, he did very well. After he led his pitch, he didn't fancy leading any more so I led the rest of the route. We descended Broad Gully (Easy/I**), it was firm with softer snow on top but no cause for concern in terms of avalanche. As the day progressed, it did get milder and the snow underfoot was becoming very wet and sticky, lets hope we have a good freeze, then conditions will be even more inviting.

I'm off to Norway for a week of ice climbing on Sunday, check back here on Tuesday 5th February for some pictures.

Have fun in the hills.


1 comment:

Roddy said...

Aye Pile, but this doesn't mean that yer no a fud!! Good to read that you are doing so well and clearly having a good one! Take care my friend and maybe even see you soon!
Yours aye