Walking Group Leader Assesment

Over the last two days I have been working on a Walking Group Leader Assessment. I was assessing 7 candidates with Helen over 3 day, I worked on the first two. The group were demonstrating their ability to navigate groups around the upland environment, keep the group interested with their knowledge of the environment and also how to deal with emergency scenarios. We also went out night navigating so the group could show me that they can navigate in poor visibility and darkness. Well done to the 4 that passed.

Mountain Equipment Testing

Today I was with Emma and Beth who work for Gaynor Sports in Cumbria. They had come down on a meet with Mountain Equipment to test out some of the latest gear. So we headed down to Tremadog for a spot of rock climbing in the sun. Neither of the girls had rock climbed outside so I led them both up Boo Boo (VD) and then Oberon (S). After realising that they both climb well and keen to learn more Emma lowered Beth into the top of Merlin Direct (HVS 5a) for a little bit of a challenge.

Pumped out of my mind!

Today Matt and I decided to jump on the 'winter training' band wagon and headed over to Clywd to a dry tooling venue. We warmed up on Apples (M7***) and then And Pears (M7***), Matt had been here before but I manage to on site them both. Both vertical route and quite spooky flat holds. We then went over too White Goods area and climbed Jaz (M8***). I didn't get this 1st got but sent it on my 3rd go then did it again as soon as I got back to the ground. We had a go on another M8, we got to the top but had to have a couple of rests. Great little training venue. Cant feel my arms now though!

Winter Navigation Preperation

Today I was out with a group of 6 who were after some preparation before the winter months kick in. The group have all walked and navigated in the summer environment but have very little experience in the snow. We firstly went over the basics of navigation and go over any grey areas before we got into more winter navigation techniques. We discussed the hazards and problems that can occur in the winter mountains and how it can affect us navigating and most importantly how we can deal with it. After revising the basic skills we went through several winter navigation strategies and what we can do in poor visibility situations. We spent quite alot of time looking at contour features and slope aspect as this was a week area for all the group as well as relocation. On the top of Pen y Ole Wen we looked at techniques for protecting near a corniced edge using a rope. Unfortunately the weather was very summery, I have never taught winter navigation/skills in a t-shirt and sun hat!!

Petzl Quark Hammer for Sale

This axe has been up most of the winter and alpine routes I have done! Its a good axe!

Mountain Leader Training

This week I have been working on a Mountain Leader Training, covering all aspects of the syllabus. Day 1 was the navigation day where we went up and around Crimpiau, looking at was of teaching navigation to groups. Throughout the week we have a big interaction with the environment so we made a good start on the flora and flora of the area. Day two we went into Cwm Idwal looking at leadership styles and group management on steep ground. As the weather was close to Armageddon, we decided not to summit the Glyders as it would have not enabled us to cover as much ground as we did and give the candidates lots of experience on the steeper ground. Day 3 was an introduction to rope work and some classroom lectures and exercises and we finished with doing some river crossing. Day 4 was security on steep ground day, again we went into Cwn Idwal and then back to prepare for expedition. Day 5 and 6 was the overnight expedition, it was mostly wet throughout the day but cleared up before we got to camp and didn't rain again until the next day. A great week with a fantastic group.

Cotsworld

Over the last two days I have been working with a group from Cotsworld outdoors. The first day I took the group out to learn all about GPS units that they stock in their stores. It was perfect weather for navigation, very low thick cloud. We tested the limitations of GPS units whilst testing out the new RAB range of clothing. Day 2 we went scrambling up the North ridge of Tryfan. The weather was much nicer today, clear skies and light winds. This meant we had a quick ascent, then went up Bristly Ridge (grade 1***) and back down to do a little introduction to ropework which the group may use on a scramble.

Day 2 and 3 First Aid

This weekend I have been finishing of a 3 day REC first aid course. Its been a fantastic 3 days, learnt lots throughout the weekend. It has been very practical and it has been great to hear Steve's stories from past experiences. Its great to hear how he has put all these techniques into real life experiences! The only problem with the course was that it put me off doing a hard and bold climb that I really wanted to do as all these stories of people being pulled off crags! One day I will climb Right Wall! Instead I went for a boulder at the Cromlech boulders.

First Aid day 1 and some hard climbing

Today I was on the first day of REC first aid course run at Plas y Brenin. Its been about 3 years since I last did a course like this so it was great to see how the school of thought has changed. It was a very practical day with the group interacting and getting hands on with one another. After the day Baby Dave and I went to have a look at Beginners Mind (E7 6c). Dave has had a play before but still not got it. We dropped a top rope down and Dave flashed it right away. I had a go and couldn't figure out the crux, my fingers just aren't strong enough for it, I did get to the top though. Dave had another go on top rope and flew up to the top, looking super cool. I had another play making slightly more progress but still couldn't get through the crux. Dave then decided to lead it, very bold climbing up to 2 poor pegs then run out to the top, very balancey and super barn-doory! Dave cruised it which was amazing to watch, a true talent! I had another go, got to the top, but fell at the hard bit again.

Suicide Wall

Currently having a super dry spell!! An Indian summer! Will and I headed up to Ogwen's Suicide Wall, a crag which is rarely dry. I've walked past the routes here many times and its great to finally get on them. I started on Suicide Wall Route 1 (e2 5c), which was brilliant, gear was spaced but adequate...(just). After abbing off Will led up Suicide Wall Route 2 (E2 5b) which was great also but did feel bolder that Route 1. A quick walk down and I then led up Capital Punishment (E3 5c) which is awesome. The climbing is steady but pretty sustained and the gear is space but again adequate. After another abb off, Will tried Penal Servitude (E4 5c) but couldn't find a way through so we just headed down and finished off on Homicide Wall (E3 5c). Another fantastic line despite being a little dirty.

Walking Group Leader Training

Today was the last day of the Walking Group Leader Training run at Plas y Brenin. Over the 3 days Helen and I covered all aspects of the syllabus through classroom and practical based activities. We headed up above Penmaenmawr on the first day, looking at navigation, leadership skills and group management. The second day we looked at hazard awareness, new navigation techniques and more consolidation of the previous day. Tuesday evening we went out night naving out the back of Capel Curig just after I was for a wee boulder at the RAC's. The final day took us up behind Rachub, around Moel Faban (409m), Llefn (443m) and Gyrn (542m).
This evening Dave and I quickly headed up to the slate and climbed Massambula (E2 5b) before it got dark.

Assessors workshop

This weekend I have attended an Assessors Wokshop run by Plas y Brenin. The two day workshops identifed and developed the skills I required to assess others in a mountain context. The programme examined the generic skills of assessing through theoretical presentations and practical application. Over the two days we looked at different aspects of assessing and approprate techniques. Through many practical and open discussions, the group built up a good structure for running an assesment. The group was quite varied, some scout leaders, teachers and other instructors. I was on the course as I am looking to work on WGL, SPA and ML assesments.

The Diamond

Mint conditions down at the Diamond today! Tim Dave and I all headed down for the afternoon, things were already kicking off! Shauna Coxey was down there along with other strong climbers, this seems the place to be at the moment. Conditions were perfect so Tim and I got straight onto Boat People (7c) and we were making good progress, managed to do the route in 3 overlapping sections, just need to link it together now! Dave was on Never Get out The Boat (8a) which he made brilliant progress but didn't warm up and got a super flash pump. Tim and I had quite a few goes, not taking into account the tide. We got so pumped it took Tim ages to get up the route to strip the draws that we nearly got wet feet escaping! A great little project for me at last!

Gogarth

After a nice relaxed start Dan and I headed out to Upper Tier of Gogarth, armed with fizzy drinks and junk food. Our first port of call was UFO (E2 5b/c). I strung the first two pitches together which make a much nicer pitch and a comfortable belay, Dan went on and finished the last pitch. After this we nipped back down and Dan led up the Strand (E2 5c), a route he's had his eye on for a while. I had never done it either and it was such a great line. After abbing off we strolled over to Strike (E4 6a). I led up to the abseil tat, just before arriving I took a lob. I learnt that Blair's beta was right, 'don't try and pull into the niche'. Unfortunately I did try and got spat off. I got back on then finished it off. A great day but a little bit chilly. The rock was perfect!

Winter Courses here

Snake and Ladders

Today's climbing was ruled out by the constant rain which had spread over North Wales. So instead John and I went for an adventure in the slate quarries. We had heard about a journey called Snakes and Ladders by various folk. Its given HVS but the climbing is never difficult. The scary bits are climbing up the ancient ladders and moving over loose slate and rubble. The route goes through all of the main climbing areas, through tunnels, up ladders, down steep rock. I did feel a little short changed as there were no snakes. Lost world was very cool, honestly felt like being in Jurassic Park. A great couple of hours out when its raining.

Check out the Winter Courses Here

Restricted climbing

Yesterday was looking wet and drizzly so Blair and I met up with Calum and and Phil for some sport climbing at LPT over on the Great Orme. I climbed Kaffe Fasset (6b) to warm up then had a couple of goes on Ive Been a Bad Bad Boy (7c+) before heading up to the cave for some bouldering. Today John and I headed over to Gogarth to climb some routes which are usually banned due to bird restrictions. We started off by abbing into Mousetrap Zawn and climbed Mouse Trap (E2 5b) A fantastic route with some amazing rock formations. After topping out we headed over to Red Wall and undertook the spooky abseil to the bottom of fantasia (E3 5c) I led the first pitch and John dispatched the second pitch well leaving me feeling pumped and tired! A great day on the coast with fantastic climbing. Cant wait to get back out there.

Check out the Winter courses for 2011-2012 here.

Advanced Scrambling

This week I have been working on an Advanced Scrambling course. The group of six all had different aims and aspirations which meant we had alot to cover. The forecast was fantastic and it meant we were able to get on all sorts of classic and remote scrambles. On day 1 we went into Ogwen and climbed up the False Gribin Ridge and then down Seniors Ridge (Grade 1*), non are particularly trick but provided the group the opportunity to test out their feet before trying something harder. Day two we went back into Ogwen and climbed the East Ridge of Y Garn (Grade 2**), introduction of rope work was on the cards today. Day three we broke down the group and I took two up Dolman Ridge (Grade 3***) on Glyder Fach, again in Ogwen. Unfortunately the weather was unpleasant but we did have a great day and finished it off by descending Bristly Ridge (Grade 1***). Day 4 we climbed Sub-Cneifion Rib (VD**), Cneifion Arete (Grade 3***) finishing down the False Gribbon and our final day was up Clogwyn y Persons Arete (Grade 3***) and down over the Crib Goch Traverse (Grade 1***). Not bad for a weeks work, 20 stars in 5 days!

Check out the Winter Courses here

Climbing at Clwyd

Today Dan and I headed East in a bid to escape all the rain in the mountains. We opted for Craig-y-Forwen (Worlds End). Unfortunatly we were only able to escape the rain for short periods of time, just enough for us to lead a route and then second in the rain. We started off on Finer Feelings (HVS 5a) which is a fantastic little route which Dan led. It incorporates great climbing and also has fantastic protection. I then went on to lead Tearg Wall (E2 5c) which has a fantastic long reach for a jug. Again the rain came in so we had to have a little break under the crag. I then went on to lead Crystal (E1 5b) which wasnt that great, a one move wonder. After this (and more showers) I tried Ego Beaver (E2 6b) but was denied by the rain. After a couple of wet attempts we decided to call it a day!

Adventure sports for families

This was a weeks adventure with several different families from all over the county. After a little time getting to know each other we came up for an action plan for the week. Rock climbing, Mountain Walking, Gorge Walking, Kayaking and Canoeing and to finish off we went orienteering. A wide range of activities alowed the group to bond very well and realise what activity they wish to persue. Mostly wanted to become rock climbers.

Afternoon slate hit

After quite an action packed day yesterday, Blair and I opted for a slightly later start and also somewhere without an hour drive! The slate was the only option! I have been wanting to do The Mau Mau (E4 6a) for quite a while so Blair was happy to hold my ropes. I warmed up on German Schoolgirl (E2 5c), a super route with only one hard section at the start (easy if your tall). Then Blair had a few goes on True Clip (7b+) and was making some good progress. After he had a few goes we headed round the corner and I led up The Mau Mau. Another brilliant route! After that Blair and I both had a couple more goes on True Clip, Blair getting pretty close to ticking it off. Fingers and rumbling stomachs meant we had to head back to the ranch!

Dindbrin

Today rain was falling in and around Llanberis so John, Blair and I headed East to Clwyd. We opted for the small scar of Dinbren. I started off on Alison (E1 5b) then we all led Traction Trauma (E4 6a) on after the other. Blair and I then both led Climb High (E4 6b), unfortunately I came off during the crux move, the mother of all rock overs! We also climbed several sport routes; Cold Turkey (6c), Technicolour Yawn (7a+), Inaugural Goose Flesh (6c+) and finished on Just Another Route Name (6c). All the climbing is superb but I thought some of the routes were a little blind! Make sure you don't do on a windy day, its pretty exposed!

Young persons week

Another busy week at work this week! I was working on the Touching Stone course for young people. Unfortunately the weeks weather hasn't been great so we have climbed quite alot in the rain and had to be quite inventive with the crags that we use. I was with brothers Luke and Dan from Harrogate. Both lads have climbed extensively indoors and have competed in the BRYCS.

We visited many crags including Tremadog Upper Tier, Castle Inn Quarry, Tremadog (Bwlch y Moch), Crag x and Craig y Forwyn. Both of the lads entered a mini bouldering competition on Thursday where they took 1st and 3rd place respectively, taking home a single rope and a t-shirt.

Back in Wales

Arrived back from the Alps on Friday, we didn't get a route in on the last couple of days as it was raining in Switzerland. Back here the forecast was pretty similar. Today we dodged the showers at Tremadog. We managed to avoid the rain all day only getting caught by a small passing shower. This was Grahams 2nd climbing day in Wales so I wanted to take him somewhere different. Firstly I led him up The Plumb (E1 5b) in one long pitch, a fantastic pitch with interest all the way up. Then we headed to the right and Graham led up Leg Slip (E1 5b), another route I haven't done and a very good route. I then led up Venom (E3 6a) which I found very tricky. After 1 fall I got there in the end. Feeling a bit pumped we finished on The Fang (HVS 5a) where I took the 1st pitch and Graham took the second. Nice to get back on the rock but I am feeling weak! Must do some more training!

Frendo Spur

After loosing my axe, Kenny and I had to head down to Chamonix to pick up my mountaineering axe to replace it. So as we were down we had a burger and some beers. This morning we took an early lift up the Aguille Du Midi but got off at the half way station. Our plan of action was the classic Frendo Spur. As we didn't get the first lift, there were several teams ahead of us but by the time we had got to a hard section and roped up, we had passed them all. There was one other team we passed higher up, they had bivied out over night. The rock was dry and clear from snow, there were a few snow patches here and there but never required us to put our crampons on. We were able to move pretty swiftly and we really wanted too because we didn't want to be on the snow crest when it get soft and mushy in the midday sun. Also we didn't really want to bivi out. We did carry bivi kit with us which we didn't need but we still made a swift ascent, topping out in 6 hours. All the rock sections were pretty steady and we only pitched a handful of times. The snow crest was exciting, we mover together all the way up to the steep ice section which was probably like Scottish grade 4. Really good route, another top day out in the Alps. The weather looks to be turning in a little so were going to head to Switzerland and see what we can find there.

Frontier Ridge (aka Kuffner Ridge)

Our hiding place just after dodging the rock fall

Today felt like a hard day! We summited Mont Maudit at the top of the Frontier Ridge at 10am after setting off at 5am in the morning. I know the problem was that we weren't acclimatised at all, and we had climbed up to 4465m, and only arrived in Chamonix the day before yesterday. Anyway the route was fantastic! The climbing was very exposed but never too difficult. The were quite a few snowy ridges which felt a little spooky but generally fun to climb over. The rock was generally pretty sound, plenty of loose stuff so we had to tred carefully. Unfortunately a team up ahead didn't tred carefully and one climber took a fall bringing off alot of rock with him. At this point Kenny and I were moving together up a steep snow slope with no protection but fortunately we had space to move to the right as fast as we possible could to just miss all the falling rock. If we were 20 seconds slower there would have been no avoiding it! We checked the climber was OK the scooted past them so we were above everyone else. The hardest part of the route for me was the last 100m height gain along the snow slopes, I could hardly walk! Note to self acclimatise before climbing to 4465m.

From the top we walked down to Col du Maudit and Col du Midi, picked up out gear stash and walked up the the Midi Ridge. At the lift I put my ice axe down for 5 minutes while I nipped to the loo in the station and somebody nicked it so I am now down a Petzl Quark Adze. If you have one for sale, let me know!