Week in Skye

Over the last week (Sunday 16th-Thursday 20th) I have been working in Skye. I was working with Jamie B for Bedford schools CCF. We were working with cadets aged 14-19, all with varied backgrounds and experiences. We ventured into the Red Cullins (Beinn Dearg Mhor, Beinn Dearg Mheadhonach, Beinn na Caillich), Storr and spent a wet and wild day below Sgurr Alasdair at Loch Coire Lagan, we even got a view of The Cioch! We spent 4 days with the cadets with one rest day in the middle, so we had a 12 hour day on Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr nan Gillean (amazing route)! It can be quite a rarity to climb a winter route on Skye so we made the most of the good conditions! Unfortunately I forgot my camera on this day so no pictures of the route. We also stopped off at the White Dyke crag near Kyle of Lochalsh for a spot of soloing and bouldering on the way home! A very busy week! (nice pose Bav!!)

Douglas Boulder

Today Big Al and I headed up into the Ben for a wee look. From looking at the weather forcasts, it appeared it was going to worsen as the day went on, so we opted for a shorter route (to stay out of the weather and also so Al could get his wife some treats from morrisons!). We ended up on the South-West Ridge of the Douglas Boulder (III) as it was low down and relativly short. Al was keen to explore this area to see if it would be a suitable area to bring clients. Pleanty of snow had fallen today, creating some new layers within the snow pack. Lets hope we have a good freeze soon! There were a few groups out today - some on MIC assesment and a couple personal climbing. Turned out to be quite a nice day!

A Red Letter Day

Today I took two clients for a walk up onto Stob Coire nan Lochain (1115m) in Glencoe. We made great progress on the walk into the corrie and then proceeded up the East ridge. This is a nice approach to the summit as there are a couple of steps here and there to manoeuvre over. Once we got to the summit (around midday) the winds and snow came in hard so a quick photograph then headed down the North ridge above the crag, bumping into some climbers on the way. There were many groups out today, some climbing, some walking and some doing winter skills. When we came off the ridge, we came across a huge snow hole, so we all jumped in out of the wild weather and enjoyed tea and biscuits in peace! Good work to whoever constructed the snow hole! After recharging our batteries we decided to do some self arrest practice, however as the snow was quite wet and soft it was a little bit too easy to stop! It was a great day, weather was pleasant on the decent with some showers here and there. Good dump of snow fell today.

21/2/2008 Skills at Glencoe

Today (21/2/08) Karl and I took a group of outdoor enthusiasts from an outdoors activity club up into Glencoe ski area to look at snow skills. The day took a while to get going as one member of the party had shrunk his boots on the radiator the previous night! But to make up he did pay for the whole group up the chair lift. We ventured up into the snow slopes and looked at various methods of making belays in the snow, starting with bucket seats, buried axes, snow bollards and had a look at a dead-man. After a small wander and some lunch we looked at using crampons on various different slopes and went for a wee wonder and introduced some step cutting. After this we had a quick look at self-arresting then gained more height for a better view. After heading down we agreed we would all walk down as it was such a nice day.

Stag party in the Mamores

Today I was up in the Mamores, walking with a 14 strong stag party. Fortunatly I wasnt alone, Karl, Nina and Davie were also keeping an eye on the guys (and also how much they drank!). It was a nice-ish day, the forcast was rain in the afternoon, but it didnt rain in the end. We walked into the corrie between Am Bodach and Na Gruagaichean and found a suitable area of snow to practice some ice axe arrests. But the guys came up with their own game of 'who can slide the fastest'! As we got up onto the ridge it was quite windy and was quite strong on the summit of Am Bodach. We headed south down the ridge and headed back to The Ice Factor for tea and cakes.

Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis in winter conditions

Today, Will Bayliss and I scaled one of Scotlands finest routes. Tower Ridge IV/3 **** on Ben Nevis. There were several groups of climbers on the route, some working, some playing, also a team from Ambleside who were breaking trail through the deep snow (cheers lads). This was Wills third winter climb, and one that he will most definately do again. It was a very eventful day, first of all an avalanche swept me off my feet as Will and I were moving together, fortunatly I had placed an exellent peice of gear which held me dangling over a snow slope, fortunatly I wasnt hurt and was able to carry on. There was quite a good amount o fresh snow, hnce the relativly high avalanch risk! It was relativly calm and clear throughout the day after a grotty start in the morning. Another great day of the hill.

Ice Climbing in Norway

Over the last week I have been in Rjukan, Norway, experiencing some rather accessable ice climbing. The climbing out there was great. We made very good use of the days we had, going out in all weather and getting some high quality routes in, Gaustaspokelse WI 4, Bakveien WI 4, Nye Vermorkfoss WI 5, Verdens Ende WI 5, Ozzimosis WI 4 plus many more. There was qute alot of snowfall while we were out there which was a bit of a shame, and as the week went on the temperature fluctuated greatly resulting in some really mild days to some very cold days. I think I would like to head out there again one day but now I want to get stuck into more scottish climbing.

Wet on the arete!

Today Tom Kilby and I walked up into Stob coire nan Lochain, Glencoe and climbed Dorsal Arete (II**). Looking at the weather the day before we saw that it was going to get much milder in the afternoon and also start raining around 3ish (and it did!), so we started nice and early and were the first up to the crag. We climbed Dorsal Arete Chimney Variant (IV,5*) in two pitches which was a great little route, turf was good, protection was moderate and the crux was very interesting, a very tight crack trying to spit you off! We then joined onto Dorsal Arete where Tom lead his first ever winter climbing pitch, and considering this was his second ever winter climb, he did very well. After he led his pitch, he didn't fancy leading any more so I led the rest of the route. We descended Broad Gully (Easy/I**), it was firm with softer snow on top but no cause for concern in terms of avalanche. As the day progressed, it did get milder and the snow underfoot was becoming very wet and sticky, lets hope we have a good freeze, then conditions will be even more inviting.

I'm off to Norway for a week of ice climbing on Sunday, check back here on Tuesday 5th February for some pictures.

Have fun in the hills.

G

An amazing day on Ben Nevis

Today Kenny and I were spoilt for choice on the Ben as the conditions were priceless! So many route were in! We ended up on Stringfellow (VI,6***) on Pinnacle buttress of the Tower. It was quite a 'slog' up to the base of the climb, but the snow underfoot was very firm so we were able to make good progress. On arrival to the route, we saw 2 climbers already set off on Stringfellow so we decided to climb up the 1st pitch of Face Dancer (VI,6*) to get ahead of them, and return onto Stringfellow. It turned out they retreated anyway. The route was outstanding, but gear was extremely hard to find/place as the rock on the route was very compact, but also nearly every inch of the rock has a thin coating of ice (cams were useless). Some of the ice routes are forming nicely such as The Curtain and Gemini on Carn Dearg Buttress, the minus gullies were also looking good, comb gully was banked out with snow and 'the Point' is plumping up! Despite the awesome conditions, there were only a few other parties out, couple on Tower Ridge, Ledge Route and I saw one guy wandering down number 4 gully. All in all, a great day with great weather.

Winter walking in Ardgour

Last Thursday Jamie Hageman, Lozenzo and I ventured out in the the wet and wild weather in serch of some snow. We chose Ardgour as it was fairly local but also it was an area I havent explored, even in the summer months. We made a complete circuit of the coire to the east of Garbh Bheinn, Coire an Iubhair. The pictures attached give some idea of the snow cover even that far west in an area normally heavily influenced by moist air from the sea. We had a great day, unfortunatly we have no views after 500-600m as the cloud was quite low, we made great progress, arrived back at the car just as it got dark.

Happy New Year

Over the last month I've been out of Scotland, and as a result I haven't been out climbing. I was over in Italy in the foot hills of the Alps visiting family, unfortunately there wasn't enough time to get up into the hills. I then flew back to Birmingham and worked in the centre of the city on a mobile ice tower for a long week. After Christmas I toured around Ireland with my father where I walked up St Patrick's Mountain, probably one of Irelands most famous, on New Years day. Visibility was poor, and I passed around 100 people! So much for escaping to the mountains for peace and quiet! When I arrived back in Scotland on the 8th January, I couldn't wait to get back into the hills.