Wednesday, 5 December 2012

June Crack

Today I was back out with Keith and a massively psyched Donald.  I think Keith and I were showing signs of tiredness after the last few days.  Anyway, with a great forecast we couldn't resist one more day out.  We met up with Donald and headed into the Buachaille.  On arrival we decided to head up to the area of Raven's Gully for a look up there.  On arrival it was clear Raven's Edge (VII,7) wasn't in condition but the East Face of Great Gully Buttress was plastered.  Without a guidebook, we agreed that we would climb a very striking line up the middle of the crag, the diagonal crack of June Crack.  To our knowledge it hadn't had a winter ascent.  It turns out it was climbed in winter 1984 and given grade V.  We couldn't understand it as we all found it very hard and agreed that it was somewhere around VIII,8.  Its harder than anything I've tried in the past.  We were unsure why it had been given grade V, maybe it was done as an ice route in exceptional condition or in 1984 there wasn't any grades higher than grade V.... Cracking route though in a fantastic setting.  So not a first ascent but most likely a second ascent.

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