Tuesday, 4 December 2012

The Twarf

With another fantastic day forcasted, I headed back out with Kenny and Keith to check out a route at a crag we hadn't been to.  From parking in Glencoe, we wandered up to the North Face of Aonach Dubh, to where Ossians Cave is.  We were all psyched for Fingal's Chimney (VI,7) but on arrival we agreed that it wasn't in the best nick.  It may well have gone but would be unpleasant pull on the turf.  We headed further up the sloping shelf and decided to climb the summer VS The Twarf given VI,7 in winter.  The first entry pitch is awkward and felt a bit insecure, fortunately I had a rope above me.  I led the second pitch which was a brilliant trick chimney to below two v-grooves.  Keith led the right have v-groove which turned out to be the crux.  Kenny led us up to the top of the route in 3 'easier' pitches (it was quicker this way, we didn't have to swap ropes and sort gear).  On the top there was plenty of snow, good winds and required a bit of navigation to get us into the corrie of SCNL.  A brilliant day and an amazing crag....very extensive!

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