Friday, 19 October 2012


Scottish rock

Veritas Splendour E2 5c

Mothers Pride E4 5c

Bad footwork

1st pitch of India E3 5c

Top pitch of India

Today Donald and I drove up to Skye to escape the worst of the weather and it turned out fantastic.  Rock climbing in Scotland is by far the best in the UK and if your prepared to travel around to find dry rock and sunshine.  You wont be disappointed. We went to Suidhe Biorach which is a short walk from Elgol passing over the Jurassic quartz sandstone cliffs, caves and a large sea stack.  So many two or three star routes to climb we started of on Altar Ego (E1 5b) which I led in one pitch.  Donald then went on and led a variation on Veritas Splendour which was somewhere around E2/3 5c.  I then went on and led Angel of Sharkness (E1 5b) which is by far a brilliant route.  After feeling warmed up we got on Mother's Pride (E4 5c).  Donald dispatched the first steep and airy pitch to the niche and I led the crux pitch which goes over some steep and impressive rock.  Amazing route.  We abseiled back down and decided to finish on another 3 star route and climbed India (E3 5c).  Again Donald led the first pitch which was a wee bit damp in places, I think we both nearly lost contact with the rock there!  I then led up the hand jamming crux pitch which was brilliant and in an amazing situation.  I would quite happily repeat all those routes again.  I abseiled down one last time to collect our trainers, I tied onto the abseil rope and climbed Jamie Jampot (VS 4c) which is a brilliant route also, one of the best VS's I've done!  So a brilliant day escaping bad weather, 11 E points, one VS and 18 stars!  If you havent been to Elgol.....go there!

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