Thursday 31 January 2013

East Buttress


Today was the final day for this weeks winter climbing work and I was keen to finish with a bang. Beinn Eighe delivered the brilliant East Buttress (IV,5). The two hour walk in enabled us to view the whole triple buttress in all its might. I had seen the place in photos but never ventured here before. To visit here for a day at work was a dream come true. Unfortunately Simon and I lost Lloyd on the walk in (not literally, he was feeling ill) so Simon and I quested on. From leaving the car, it took us 4 hours to make tracks on the first pitch and we weren't exactly moving slow. The route was amazing. Great sustained climbing at grade 4 with a nice crux section at the top which led to a nice scramble to finish. We were blessed with fine views out to sea before being swamped in snow showers and cloud. From the top of the route it was only 1 hour 20 mins back to the car where we found Lloyd with the music pumping. After he had a sleep he went for a wee boulder and tried to find a bit of dry tooling but to no prevail. A great end to a great week working for Martin Moran.


Camera has been placed in a coffin, it has served me well.  I shall try and replace when i'm not climbing, not sure when that will be though...

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